I use the DarkSky Map to find many of the areas we visit as well as consult other photographers.!

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1 NORTH TEXAS NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY Background: Welcome to the NTNP Group. I m glad you have decided to join us on a meet-up. I started this group because I love photography. More specifically, I love night photography - the stars, the Milky Way, the galactic core, star trails, all of it. I ve been to several workshops - and find that every time I shoot, I learn something new. Still, getting out into the dark skies can be intimidating and even scary, especially if you are alone. There are plenty of workshops to join so that you are with people, but they usually cost anywhere from $300 - $3,000. With the right equipment and some guidance, it doesn t need to cost that much. I figure there are plenty of people in the DFW area that would probably appreciate this type of group. I looked around and couldn t find one - so I started one. Most of my career has been spent teaching and training in corporate settings. So, naturally, I love teaching. For me, I can t think of a better way to spend my time than teaching someone how to do something I enjoy too. Where do we photograph? If we are photographing stars, we can't see many stars or the Milky Way in DFW, so we will need to get out of the light pollution areas. There are several great night landscape and dark-sky locations near DFW (1.5 hours away) as well as more distant locations (West of Mineral Wells, Texoma, Texas hillcountry, SE Oklahoma, Cap Rock Canyon, and West Texas are a few). I use the DarkSky Map to find many of the areas we visit as well as consult other photographers. If you are new to night photography (specifically stars and Milky Way), I recommend that you join one of our closer outings before you travel far to try to do this for the first time. The Milky Way s galactic core seen over Cooper Lake, which is only about 1.5 hours away from DFW. Sometimes we will stay closer to the DFW area. If we are photographing city scenes, we'll stay closer or in the city. Meetings (in DFW) would include Meet & Greets, tutorials to get to know your settings,

2 more local landscape night photography, discussion on locations, preparing & planning, equipment requirements, post-processing using Lightroom, Photoshop, and StarStax. All skill levels are welcome. Dallas lights and car lights during a long exposure in Dallas. How do you know where to go to see stars or the Milky Way? I use the DarkSky Map to find many of the areas we visit as well as consult other photographers. DarkSky Map can tell me the light pollution levels. We can get as close as Cooper Lake (which is only 1.5 hours away from DFW) to see the Milky Way. Or we can get to some really dark sky s in West Texas. This involves travel time, late hours, lots of caffeine, and maybe camping or finding lodging for overnight trips.

3 Required equipment for photographing the night sky: Photographing the night sky is not difficult, but it is one field of photography where the right equipment absolutely makes all the difference. Getting sharp photos of dim moving objects like stars and the Milky Way is a lot more demanding than well-lit subjects during the day or with artificial light. The Camera: A DSLR camera that can be placed in complete manual mode (M). You will need to be able to control the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Some lower end DSLRs will not allow you to control all three separately. Although, you may be able to control all three in BULB mode. You also want an ISO of at least Some older camera s wont get over 1250 ISO. To get an understanding about the best settings for night sky photography, see the section, Typical Settings for shooting the night sky. Full frame sensor is best (compared to camera s with smaller sensors or crop sized). Sensor technology continues to improve with every new generation, getting more sensitive with less noise at high ISOs. Generally, full frame cameras have an advantage over crop sized and smaller sensors due to the size of each pixel being larger and able to capture more photons in the same time frame. Sensor size, pixel density (number of megapixels), and in-camera processing all determine the quality of image at high ISO. You want a camera that can shoot cleanly to ISO 2500 at least, and preferably ISO 3200 to 6400 for very dark skies. Some newer mirrorless and crop sensor cameras are quite capable of this, particularly by Sony and Fuji. The Lenses: Lenses with an aperture less than f/4.0 work best. Lenses at f/2.8 would be ideal but these cost more. Some camera kit lenses get up to f/3.5. These will work if you camera is better (able to get to higher ISO like 1250). A wide angle lens works best. Wide angle lenses let you use longer exposures at night without stars streaking. If you don t have a wide angle lens, you can always rent one. Competitive Cameras or Arlington Camera will rent lenses. Other required equipment: A sturdy tripod (not too cheap, but one that can withstand a bit of wind) An intervalometer (shutter release system). There are many different kinds. More expensive doesn't necessarily equate to better on these. Memory cards (extra too) Extra batteries for your camera Flashlight Redlight - you can find these at Walmart (headlamp is best so you can manipulate your camera settings with both hands with light on your camera). Once your eyes adjust to the night sky, should you need a light, using a red light is best (easier to see without having to wait for your eyes to adjust and doesn't ruin everyone else's photos). Additional recommended equipment for astrophotography: A folding chair (esp. if you are shooting for star trails) Bug spray

4 What you should know before joining us in the field: I am always happy to help people in the field. However, in order to make super use of your time, it is important for you to understand hoe to do/find specific tasks on our camera. I am familiar with Canon and Nikon, but some camera s I am not familiar with. If you do not know how to do these simple tasks on your camera, you may get stuck. 1. How to get your camera into manual mode 2. How to turn off auto focus (on our came and your lens) 3. How to turn on/off LIVE VIEW (if you camera has it) 4. How to change all three components of the Manual Mode: Aperture, ISO, and Shutter Speed It is super helpful if you also know the following (if you don t know these, its ok): How to dim your review screen (so it isn t too bright) How to change your camera to back button focus (if your camera allows) Typical camera settings for shooting the night sky: A good baseline exposure for the Milky Way on a full frame sensor with dark skies is 14mm, f/2.8, ISO , 25 seconds, and then tweak your settings from there. Aperture A wide aperture of at least f/4 is best for Milky Way photography, preferably f/2.8 unless your camera is capable of extremely high ISOs. Not every lens is sharp at f/2.8, and many f/1.4 and f/1.8 primes are not sharp enough until stopped down to at least f/2. Many lenses produce oblong and pear shaped stars in the corners at wide apertures, this is known as coma and is not easily fixed in post-production. Distortion and vignetting are much easier to fix. A few notable lenses are exceptional at wide apertures with very little coma, particularly the Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8, Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 (manual focus), Sigma 35mm f/1.4 ART, and Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X116 Pro DX II (for crop sensors). Generally speaking, lenses with an aspherical lens element have better coma control. ISO As mentioned previously, ISO 2500 to 6400 is a good ISO range for the Milky Way with dark skies. Conventional wisdom would dictate using as low an ISO as possible for less noise, but night photography is very different. Unless you are using a tracker or stacking images for longer exposures, we have to use very high ISOs to capture enough detail of the Milky Way. Ideally you are aiming for -6 to -7 EV exposures for good Milky Way details with no light pollution or moonlight. Check out this dedicated article on the NPF Rule for a spreadsheet of various camera models with suggested high ISO and shutter speeds: Ian Normal has an excellent article on finding the best ISO to use for your camera too:

5 White Balance White balance won t affect RAW files, just JPEGs, TIFFs, and the preview image on the camera s rear LCD display. I find a proper white balance is useful when shooting in the field though to get a better preview of my image and exposure, since the histogram won t be of much use for really dark scenes. A manual white balance of somewhere between 3000 and 4000 K is best for the Milky Way. It doesn t have to be precisely accurate, you can change it in Lightroom or Camera RAW later. If shooting timelapses and editing using LRTimelapse, a manual white balance is preferred for consistency over auto white balance. LCD Brightness The brightness of the rear LCD on your camera will probably be way too bright for reviewing images at night. It will fool you into thinking your photos are exposed brighter than they really are, and it will annoy others shooting near you I dial it down until I can barely see the difference in shade between the two darkest colors (black and dark gray) in the sample palette, about -2 to -3 on a Nikon. RAW vs JPEG RAW files store much more data than JPEGs, which is important for good post-processing later of night photos, particularly the Milky Way. If your camera has a choice between 12 or 14-bit RAW files, go with the highest quality and image size possible for better noise reduction and shadow boosting later. Noise Reduction here are two types of noise reduction in your camera s menu: high ISO noise reduction and long exposure noise reduction. High ISO noise reduction doesn t apply to RAW files, only JPEGs and the embedded preview image, so I leave it disabled to avoid extra processing time by the camera. Long exposure noise reduction applies to all file types and removes hot pixels from sensor heat during long exposures (typically 8 seconds or more on most cameras). It doubles your exposure time and shoots the second photo with the shutter curtain closed, then removes any exposed pixels it finds in the second shot from the previous one before saving the file. For a 30 second photo, a minute isn't a long wait, but for a 4 to 8 minute ground exposure, it can feel like eternity Night photography is a craft that takes a lot of patience to master though, and I usually leave long exposure reduction enabled unless I m shooting a panorama or timelapse. If you are shooting a panorama or especially a timelapse for star trails, you can t have a long interval between shots for long exposure noise reduction. Instead, you can shoot a dark frame at f/22 with a lens cap on to capture nothing but hot pixels, and then apply it to your light frames later. Image Stabilization Disable any image stabilization features your sensor or lens might have. Nikon calls it VR for Vibration Reduction, Canon calls it IS for Image Stabilization, Tamron calls it VC for Vibration Compensation, Sony calls it OSS for Optical Steady Shot, etc. Typically you want this feature turned off when using a tripod, and it won't work with the long exposures we shoot at night anyway. Focus Critical focus is necessary for sharp stars. Infinity is usually not where it is marked on your lens. Autofocus on most cameras will not work on dim stars. The best method is to manually focus on a very bright star using live view on a tripod. If you have good enough eyes, you can roughly center a star in the viewfinder and then switch over to live view. Live view won t see any stars until at least 5x usually, and then you can pan around a bit until you find it and zoom in again to 10x or higher. Don t zoom with your lens, most zoom lenses have focus breathing where they shift focus slightly as you zoom. Manually adjust your focus until the star in live view is as small a pixel as you can get it with no soft edges or halos around it. Make a note of where this point is on your depth of field scale and tape your

6 lens down for the night with masking tape or anything that won t leave a sticky residue, unless you are going to do focus stacking later. And one more thing - A note about night photography etiquette: Many of out outings, we have new folks joining the group. So, I wanted to give folks some information on what NOT to do. Don t be THAT person, Usually when we first get to a location, folks try to find their spot. Be careful not to set up in front of anyone (or too close to them). Any light you produce later in the night will ruin their shot. Once everyone gets settled, lights go off. If you must use a light, you should only use your red light. Before turning on your red light, it s courtesy to ask if anyone is open or shooting. If so, wait till they say that they are done before you turn on our light (even a red light). Once you turn the red light on, don t shine it everywhere. Point it only to where you need it. Filter it with your hands or fingers if you need to. Do not point it out to the landscape or a people - someone may be shooting. Be very aware where you walk. Careful not to walk in front of folks or bump people s tripods. I hope this helps provide some more information to get you started. I look forward to working with you and I really hope you enjoy photographing the night sky.

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