When you first open the dialog box you only see two sliders.

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1 Shadow/Highlight Of course there will still be the times when you do not either remember to make two exposures or you have older images that are already exposed you can give Shadow/Highlight a try. I find it to be very useful, even on some images that I thought were exposed properly! It is located in the menus under Image>Adjustments. When you first open the dialog box you only see two sliders. Original Shadow Highlight box You need to click on the Show More Options box to get the whole dialog box to be revealed. With any tool, you get the best results when you know how to operate the tool properly, and Shadow/Highlight is no different. Shadow/Highlight with show more options

2 There are eight main components of the Shadow/Highlight dialog box. They are Amount, Tonal Width and Radius for both the Shadows and the Highlights; and Color Correction and Midtone Contrast. It is the correct use of these eight sliders that will make this tool perform well for you. Let s examine the sliders in the order they are found in the dialog box. The first three sliders affect how the shadows are controlled. The Amount is straightforward. The higher you set this number the lighter it gets in the shadows. The Tonal Width controls the number of shades that will be affected by the Amount. The higher this number the more you push towards the midtones and highlights, so be careful and just control your shadow values. The Radius is the amount of increase of contrast along edges of gray. The best way to work this slider is to set it to 2500 pixels and then to the other extreme of 0 pixels. Then slide it slowly from one end to the other slowly and watch as the highlights and shadow dance through the image. There will a sweet spot that will work with each image and it will vary from image to image. It truly is a visual choice. The next set of sliders affect the how the highlights are controlled. They are the same three choices as above. The Amount in the case of highlights affects how dark the highlights get. The Tonal Width again controls the number of shades affected by the Amount. If you go too high you begin to affect midtones and shadows. And the Radius should be worked the same as above. The next two controls are the Color Correction and Midtone Contrast. The Color Correction slider will saturate the colors affected by the Shadow or Highlight controls but not the colors of tones that are not affected. The Midtone Contrast slider will add or subtract contrast from the midtones in the image. You usually need to add a little midtone contrast to make the image blend better. Now lets look at two examples. In this first example I was photographing my son with a Canon D60 camera. I t was a typical backlight situation and I did not use a flash. Hence my background was exposed properly but my subject was underexposed.

3 Backlight situation I opened the image in Photoshop CS and went under the Adjust menu down to Shadow/Highlight (there is no keyboard shortcut, but in Photoshop CS you can now assign your own keyboard shortcut). When the dialog box came up I selected Show More Option in the lower left hand corner. This presents the entire dialog box. entire dialog box. I started by sliding the Amount slider in the shadows to open up Logan s face. Then I adjusted the Tonal Width of the Shadows to control how much area was affected. At this point the image looked really flat, so I jumped down to the midtone contrast and boosted the contrast. It helped a lot. Then I played with the Shadow Radius setting until I liked what I saw. Next I went to the Highlights and increased the Amount and then played with the Radius of the Highlights until I liked what I saw. The colors looked flat, so I increased the Color Correction. It was looking better, with a tweak here and there, on the Radius controls it looked much better.

4 Settings used Original Corrected Remember the tool is called Shadows/Highlight, so besides just fixing underexposed shadows, I wanted to see what it could do to an overexposed highlight. So, I opened another image. This one was taken in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan. This time I worked on the Highlights first, since that was the problem I was correcting. Following a similar workflow, I increased the Amount of the Highlights and then adjusted the other sliders. In just a few short moments, not only had the sky improved a hundred percent but the color in the autumn trees looked great too!

5 Before Shadow/Highlight settings After New is CS3 is a more flexible way to work with Shadow/Highlight. First you need to convert your image into a Smart Object. Adobe describes a Smart Object as this: Smart Objects are layers that contain

6 image data from raster or vector images, such as Photoshop or Illustrator files. Smart Objects preserve an image s source content with all its original characteristics, enabling you to perform nondestructive editing to the layer. With Smart Objects, you can: 0. Perform nondestructive transforms. You can scale, rotate, or warp a layer without losing original image data or quality because the transforms don t affect the original data. (Some transform options, such as Perspective and Distort, aren t available.) 2. Work with vector data, such as vector artwork from Illustrator, that otherwise would be rasterized in Photoshop. 3. Perform nondestructive filtering. You can edit filters applied to Smart Objects at any time. Edit one Smart Object and automatically update all its linked instances. In this case we are going to use it make Shadow/Highlight more flexible since Shadow/Highlight is not available as an adjustment layer. So first go to Filter>Convert for Smart Filters. Convert for Smart Filters This will turn the pixel layer into a Smart Object! Now go to Image>Adjustments and you will see Shadow/Highlight is your only available choice.

7 Image>Adjustments Select it and the same dialog box will appear. Adjust the sliders as mentioned above in the CS2 method. Now when you say OK you will see the layers palette looks like this: Layer palette 1. The Smart Object 2. The Layer Mask you can paint in this layer mask to hide or show the effect of the Shadow/Highlight settings. 3. Layer Mask Visibility you can turn the visibility of the mask on or off. 4. Effect Visibility you can turn the effect of the Shadow/Highlight settings on or off. 5. Reopen dialog box if you double click on the words Shadow/Highlight the dialog box will reopen and you can readjust the sliders similar to an adjustment layer! 6. Blend Modes if you double click on this icon you can set the Blend Mode of the effect. In summary by using the Smart Object you have given Shadow/Highlight all the attributes of an adjustment layer. I plan to make Shadows/Highlights a part of my workflow on most images, even if I do not see an immediate need in the image. I have been impressed with what it can do to image where I do not see an obvious over exposed or under exposed area, but just want to improve lighting ratios. I have also found on some images it works better if I do the process in two steps, once working on the shadows and once working on the highlights. This is because in some images the amount of midtone contrast or color correction you will need will be different on shadows and highlights, the two-step process will allow you to do that. I think careful use of these controls can improve almost any image. Try it and see what it can do for you!

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