INTRODUCTION. Research was done in the frame of the Eureka project: EUREKA! 3151 NAGREFIAT. Start of the project: January 2004.

Transcription

1 INTODUCTION Ma gorzata Matusiak Teresa ymarz, Krzysztof Sikorski Textile esearch Institute, odz Poland Urania Kechagia, Elleni Tsaliki National Agricultural esearch oundation NAGE, Cotton and Industrial Plants Institute, Thessaloniki Greece Iwona rydrych Clothing Department, Technical University of odz, Poland esearch was done in the frame of the Eureka project: EUEKA! 3151 NAGEIAT Using Naturally Colored Cotton for Good Quality, Attractive and Ecological Textile Products INTE-EGIONA COOPEATIVE ESEAC NETWOK ON COTTON Alexandroupolis INTODUCTION Start of the project: January Partner countries: POAND GEECE TUKEY INTODUCTION Meetings: Bremen, Germany - March Thessaloniki, Greece - September, Krakow, Poland September 5, Izmir, Turkey ebruary, Bremen, Germany March, Alexandroupolis, Greece - September. INTODUCTION INTODUCTION Meeting in Thessaloniki (September ) Meeting in Izmir ( ebruary )

2 INTODUCTION INTODUCTION Meeting in Cracow ( September ) Meeting in Alexandroupolis ( September ) Areas of investigation: fibers, yarns, fabrics, clothing. Presented results concern the project activity realized by the Polish and Greek partners of the project. The aim of work was: to investigate an application of the naturally colored cotton of Greek origin in yarns and fabrics, to analyze the influence the share of brown Greek cotton on the properties of yarns and fabrics made of this cotton. In the frame of the presented work the following investigation were carried out: laboratory measurement of the naturally colored cotton of Greek origin, manufacturing the rotor yarns from the naturally colored cotton of Greek origin, laboratory assessment of cotton yarns made of naturally colored cotton,

3 designing the woven fabric structures and patterns with the application of the naturally colored cotton, production of the woven fabrics with the application of colored cotton, measurement of the structural, mechanical and biophysical properties of woven fabrics made of the naturally colored cotton. analysis of the influence of share of naturally colored cotton in fabrics on their properties: - mechanical, - thermal, - barrier against UV radiation, - color fastness. Naturally colored cotton of Greek origin was used for experimental production of yarns. ay down was composed of bales of brown cotton. (w) (w)cv UQ(w) Bale - mm mm I II III IV Av IBE POPETIES Bale ine IC Mat Nep Dust Trash VM - mtex - g -1 g -1 g -1 I VM SC 1 in II Trash Cnt/g IC III IV Dust Cnt/g Mat atio Av Nep Cnt/g iber quality according to Uster Statistics

4 No Parameter Unit Value of the parameter 3 tex tex 5 tex 1. inear density Ttex Mass variation coefficient 3. Tenacity cntex Breaking force variation coefficient 5. Breaking elongation Elongation variation coefficient 7. Twist obr. m Twist coefficient Twist variation coefficient Value of the parameter No Parameter Unit 3 tex tex 5 tex 1. CV Thin places/1 m Thick places/1 m Neps/1 m YAN POPETIES YAN POPETIES 1 1,5 1 1, cn/tex 11,5 11, 1,5 1, m ,5 3 tex tex 5 tex 3 tex tex 5 tex strength breaking force variation coefficient 3 tex tex 5 tex 3, twist 3,,5, 1,5 1,,5 1, 3 tex tex 5 tex 3 tex tex 5 tex 3 tex tex 5 tex breaking elongation breaking elongation variation coefficient twist variation coefficient YAN POPETIES CV 17, 1,5 1, 15,5 15, 1,5 1, 13,5 13, 1,5 CV Thin places/1 m tex tex 5 tex 3 tex tex 5 tex Neps/1m neps /1 m Thick places /1 m tex tex 5 tex 3 tex tex 5 tex thin places / 1 m thick places / 1 m YAN POPETIES No inear density Variant CV Thin places Thick places Neps tex < tex. > tex Quality level acc. to Uster Statistics Description < 5 Very good 5 5 Good 5 5 Average 5 75 Satisfactory Unsatisfactory > 95 Bad

5 abric manufacturing In the frame of the project different kinds of fabrics were elaborated: woven fabrics, knitted fabrics. Woven fabrics: fabrics for clothing on the basis of plain weave, goffer fabrics, terry towels, flannel. goffer fabrics Different colors of weft yarn goffer fabrics Different colors of weft yarn goffer fabrics abrics with fancy yarns in weft terry towels Color yarn in fringe

6 terry towels Color yarn in weft terry towels Color yarn in warp and weft abrics investigated: the plain woven fabrics made of white and brown cotton, OE yarns: - warp yarn of linear density 3 tex, - the weft yarn of linear density tex. the nominal warp density 3/dm the nominal weft density 1/dm. The set of fabric variants Symbol of variant warp Color of yarn weft WW white white WB white brown BB brown brown

7 Mechanical properties aw fabrics inished fabrics Parameter Unit Width m Mass per square meter gm Mass per meter g Warp density dm Weft density dm Tenacity in warp direction cn Tenacity in weft direction cn Elongation in warp direction Elongation in weft direction Shrinkage in warp direction Shrinkage in weft direction cn abric tenacity: a) in warp direction cn 3 1 b) in weft direction abric shrinkage: Thermal insulation properties aw fabrics inished fabrics Parameter Unit Air permeability mms Water absorbability , Warm/cool feeling Wm a) in warp direction 1 1 Thermal conductivity Wm -1 K eat keeping property eat keeping property Water vapour resistance m PaW b) in weft direction eat keeping property acc. to Thermo abo II: a) by wet contact method, water absorbability mm/s WW WB b) by wet spaced method air permeability

8 ABIC POPETTIES Barrier properties against UV radiation ABIC POPETTIES 1 Sample UVA UVB UP WW - raw WW - washed WB - washed BB - raw BB - washed BBT* - washed UVA [] 1 1 WW r WW w WB w BB r BB w BBT w Transmission of UVA radiation ABIC POPETTIES ABIC POPETTIES 1 7 UVB [] a* WW r WW w WB w BB r BB w BBT w WW 1xw BB r BB 1xw BB xw BB 3xw BB xw BB 5xw BB xw Transmission of UVB radiation Color coordinate a (green/red) ABIC POPETTIES ABIC POPETTIES b* * 3 1 WW 1xw BB r BB 1xw BB xw BB 3xw BB xw BB 5xw BB xw WW 1xw BB r BB 1xw BB xw BB 3xw BB xw BB 5xw BB xw Color coordinate b (blue/yellow) Color coordinate (lightness)

9 On the basis of the carried out research it can be concluded that: although the brown cotton of Greek origin is characterized by low maturity, great amount of total neps, SCN neps, trash and dust particles, its application in OE yarn manufacturing did not cause any disruptions in the technological process of yarn manufacturing, the quality parameters of OE yarns made of naturally colored cotton depend on the yarn twist, the quality of OE yarns made under industrial conditions is on the satisfactory level according to the Uster Statistics except for yarn neppiness, the brown Greek cotton can be processed in rotor mill into OE yarns of linear densities similar to that of yarns made of middle staple white cotton: from 3 tex to 5 tex, application of the brown cotton in warp preparation and weaving did not disturb the industrial processes and the fabric manufacturing, the low strength of brown cotton fibers in the warp yarn caused a decrease in the tenacity of washed fabrics in the warp direction, brown cotton has not influence on fabric shrinkage, the thermal properties of fabrics made of colored cotton and colored cotton blends were similar to that made of white cotton while fabrics made of the brown cotton were warmer to the touch than that of white cotton. an application of brown cotton in woven fabrics improves their barrier properties against UV radiation, fabrics made of brown cotton are characterized by the excellent color fastness. Thank you very much for your kind attention!