Starcraft 2 -- Zergling amigurumi Crochet pattern
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- Annabel Short
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1 Starcraft 2 -- Zergling amigurumi Crochet pattern Introduction The Zergling is a figurine from the game Starcraft 2. I constructed a fully grown up zergling amigurumi with wings and slash arms. The zergling was constructed after studying several pictures. Needed o Cotton yarn, for example SMC Catania Color or similar yarn. Dark brown, brown, natural white, lilac and purple, are the colors I used. o Hook, suitable for the used yarn, I used 2.5 mm o Stuffing o Common, yarn and tapestry needle. o Chenille or coated wire o Small round elastic band o Beads for the eyes (optional) o 4 shirt buttons with big holes, suitable for the elastic band US terminology is used MR = Magic ring SC = Single crochet HDC- Half double Crochet DC Double Crochet SLST= slipstitch CH = chain ST = stitch Inc= Increase across the round/row by making 2 sc in 1 st. Dec= decrease across the round/row by crocheting 2 sc together. Stuffing To make the parts bendable you have to put some chenille or wire in them. Round the ends, otherwise the chenille will protrude through the fabric. Use double bended chenille with longer body parts or two twisted chenille together. Don t wait with stuffing till you are ready with crocheting. It can be too late to do so. Stuff while you crochet especially the legs. Don t make bendable parts too stiff. Body Starting point is the tip of the tail! Onto the tail a white spike is sewed later on, make this separately. 1. Start with dark brown and make a MR and 6 sc in the ring, end with a slst in the first sc (6) 2. Ch 1, put the hook in the back loop and increase every sc 1 sc, end with a slst (12) 3. Ch 1, Dec 4 sc. (8) Crochet from now on in a spiral, mark the first stitch. This will be the belly side 4. 8 Sc (8) 5. Make 4 or 5 rounds for the first part of the tail. 6. Inc every 5 th st 1 sc. Continue till 20 sc in a round. (20) 7. Inc 2 sc on both sides of the body (22) 1 Alice Bakker-Sicking
2 8. 22 sc around (22) 9. Inc 4 sc on the back of the body (26) sc around (26) 11. Inc 2 sc on the back of the body (28) sc around (28) 13. Inc 2 sc on the back of the body (30) sc around (30) 15. Inc 2 sc on the back of the body (32) sc around (32) 17. Repeat round 16 for 4 times. The body counts at least 36 rounds on this point, if this is not the case, repeat round 16 (32) one or more times. Put a double bended or two chenille twisted together in the tail and body. Stuff the tail a little bit already. 18. Dec 1 sc on both sides of the body (30) sc around (30) 20. Dec 4 sc over the sides and back, don t dec in the 10 sc on the belly (26) sc around (26) 22. Dec 4 sc over the sides and back, don t dec in the 10 sc on the belly (22) sc around 24. Crochet (1 sc, 2 sc together) for the rest of the rounds till 7 sc (7) The body counts now 43 or 44 rounds. 25. Stuff the body. Don t close the body. Fasten off, leave long tail. 26. Make a spike on the top of the tail, using white yarn. Head 1. Start with brown yarn and a MR and 6 sc in the ring, end with slst in first sc, do this also for the next rounds (6) 2. Inc 6 sc (12) 3. Inc 6 sc (18) 4. Inc 6 sc (24) sc around, crochet in the back loop of the previous row, turn (24) 6. Ch 1, 19 sc, turn (20) (making gap A) 7. Ch 1, 4 sc with brown, Join with white, 10 sc, interweave the brown thread through the back of the stitches, 5 sc brown, turn (20) 8. Ch 1, 4 sc brown, 10 sc white, weave the brown thread through the sc, clip the white yarn, 5 sc brown, turn, (20) 9. Ch 1, 19 sc brown, Ch 4, slst in the first Ch. Closing the gap. Don t turn (24) sc around end with slst in first st and do so for the next rounds (24) 11. Dec 6 sc (18) 12. Dec 6 sc (12) 13. Dec 6 sc (6) fasten off (B ) close the gap 14. Stuff the head through gap A 15. Sew the head to the body with the MR on top. 16. Embroider later on, two eyes with lilac and brown or use some nice beads Plate armor back piece of the body Actually, the armor consists of several plates lying partly above each other. I crocheted a simple armor. Furthermore the armor of head and body is made in one piece; therefore you have to first sew the head to the body. Compare your armor piece to the body, your body is larger or smaller you can adjust it by crocheting a row more or less. 1. Start with lilac and a MR and 6 sc in the ring, end with a slst in the first sc(6) 2. Ch 1, Inc 6 sc (12) end with a slst 3. Ch 1, Inc 6 sc (18) end with a slst 2 Alice Bakker-Sicking
3 4. Crochet further on one side of the circle, Ch 3, 3 dc (4) turn ( the ch of 3 counts as the first dc) 5. Ch 3, Inc 2 dc, 4 dc, turn (6) (increase on both sides) 6. Ch 3, inc 1 dc, 5 dc, turn (7) 7. Ch 3, dec 1 dc, 4 dc, turn (6) 8. Ch 3, dec 1 dc, 3 dc turn (5) 9. Ch 3, 4 dc, turn (5) 10. Ch 3, 4 dc, turn (5) 11. Ch 3, dec 1 dc, 2 dc, turn (4) 12. Ch 3, 3 dc, turn (4) 13. Ch 3, 3 dc, turn (4) 14. Ch 3, dec 2 dc (2) 15. Fasten off 16. Join with dark brown. Start with Ch 1. Crochet further sc around the armor piece 17. Make a second row sc around the armor piece, end with a slst. Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing. 18. Double up the border and sew it onto the armor piece. Sew the armor to the head and body, the MR part lies above the head. Head tentacles or mandibles Make two 1. Start with dark brown and make a MR with 6 sc (6) 2. Inc 4 sc (10) sc around (10) 4. Repeat last round 3 times and end with a slst (10) 5. Join with brown, ch 1 and dec 2 sc (8) 6. 8 sc around (8) 7. Repeat last round 7 times (8) 8. End with slst and fasten off 9. Put double bended chenille in the tentacle, let the chenille protrude a little bit and prick the end in the fabric of the body before sewing the tentacle to the neck. Bend the tentacle in a nice awesome way. 10. Sew a spike onto the tentacle (length spike about 20 mm or 7 rounds) Spikes and nails It is easier to crochet the spikes inside out; otherwise you have to turn the spike. On Elzeblaadje there is a post about spikes Make one spike for the tail and two for the head tentacles/ mandibles. (See above) Make the last in pair alike. There are also spikes on the legs and slash arms; they vary in length, width and color. Nails are made in the same manner as spikes. Sometimes it helps to use a smaller hook and smaller yarn. 1. Start with a magic ring and white yarn and crochet 4 sc in the ring. Crochet a sc in the first sc of the MR. Take the loose thread in your hand and pull down, the tip of the spike forms! 2. Crochet further sc in a spiral, increase 1 till 3 sc in the first round (5-7), 3. Crochet till spike is long and wide enough; increase if necessary 1 till 3 sc (7-10). 4. Fasten off, 5. Sew the spikes to the body. 6. Each spike needs a little bit of stuffing before sewing to the body. Slash arms The slash arms are situated behind the head and behind the mandibles, next to the armor en before the first leg. It is a long arm that can protrude to slash an opponent. It has saw blades and an awesome spike on the front. 3 Alice Bakker-Sicking
4 Make first the slash arms 1. Start with brown yarn and crochet a MR and 6 sc in the ring. (6) end with a slst 2. Ch 1, Inc 2 sc (8), crochet in a spiral from now on sc around (8) 4. Repeat round 3 at least 13 times (8) (15 rounds brown) End with slst, clip the yarn, 5. Join with purple, 1 ch, 7 sc (8) 6. Dec 1 sc (7) 7. 7 sc around (7) 8. Repeat round 7 at least 6 times (7) 9. Inc 1 sc (8) 10. Inc 1 sc (9) 11. Inc 1 sc (10) end with a slst, fasten off. 12. Put chenille or coated wire in the arm, let a small part of the chenille protrude. 13. Stuff the last part of the arm a bit. 14. Make a big saw, a small saw and a spike for each arm, sew these on the arm. (See saw blades) 15. Sew the arms to the body, while pricking the protruding part of the wire in the fabric of the body. Saw blades Make a large saw blade (7 rounds) and a small saw blade (4 rounds) for each slash arm 1. Start with white and a MR, in the ring 4 sc, (4) 2. Crochet a sc in the first sc of the MR. closing the ring, pull the intent thread outward. 3. Inc 3 sc in the next 2 rounds (7) 4. Inc 1 sc at each side of the saw, a triangle forms (9) 5. 9 sc around (9) 6. Repeat the last 2 rounds (11) 7. After 4 or 7 rounds end with a slst in the next st, 8. Fasten off, leave long tail 9. Stuff slightly 10. Sew the blade to the slash arm. Hind legs Make two, make 4 white nails for each leg. Make a brown spike with a piece of crocheted chain for each leg. I made the legs moveable with elastic band and buttons. You can do the same or sew them directly to the body. 1. Chain 9 with brown (9) 2. Slst in the fourth ch of the hook, slst in the first stitch of the chain, an 8 loop forms. 3. Ch 1, 4 sc in the first loop, 5 sc in next loop (10) end with a slst 4. Ch 1, 11 sc, crochet in the back loop of the stitches of the previous round (12), end with a slst. 5. Ch 1, continue in a spiral and make 3 rounds of 12 sc (12) Mark the beginning of the rounds 6. Dec 1 sc in the middle of the front side of the foot and dec 1 sc in the middle of the backside of the foot (10 sc) sc around (10) sc around (10) sc around (10) 10. Dec 1 sc in the middle of the front side of the foot and dec 1 sc in the middle of the backside of the foot (8) sc around (8) sc around (8) sc around (8) 14. Inc 1 sc (9) sc around (9) end with a slst, clip the yarn (15 rounds brown) 16. Join with purple ch 1, Inc 1 sc (10) sc around (10) 4 Alice Bakker-Sicking
5 18. Inc 2 sc (12) sc around (12) sc around (12) sc around (12) 22. Dec 2 sc (10) 23. Stuff the leg and put double bended chenille or coated wire in the leg sc around (10) 25. Dec 1 sc (9) 26. Dec 1 sc (8) (10 rounds purple) 27. Don t close the leg, stuff it further 28. Make 4 toenails (spikes) and sew them to the leg 29. Make a brown spike and end with slst, chain of 12, clip the yarn, leave long tail 30. Make the other leg similar 31. Sew the legs to the body or take some elastic band and a shirt button. Construct bendable legs with the buttons and elastic band. 32. Sew the brown spike on top of the leg with the chain on the front side of the leg Front legs Make two legs and make for each leg three toenails in the same manner as spikes. I made the legs moveable with elastic band and buttons. You can do the same or sew them straight to the body. Start with the two toes! Toes Make two toes for each leg 1. Start with a MR and 6 sc in the ring, using brown yarn (6) end with a slst in the first st. 2. Ch 1, 5 sc around (6) continue in a spiral way sc around (6) 4. 6 sc around (6) end with a slst, clip the yarn and start with the other toe, don t clip the yarn this time but continue with the foot (5) Foot 5. Over 2 toes, 12 sc and inc 2 sc in the middle of the foot on each side (14) continue in a spiral way sc around (14) 7. Dec 2 sc, decrease in the middle of the foot and in the middle under the foot (12) 8. Repeat 7 (10) 9. Repeat 7 (8) 10. Put chenille in, both ends in a toe, stuff the toes 11. Make a heel by crocheting 4 sc, turn, 1 ch, 3 sc sc around (10) 13. Dec 2 sc (8) end with slst and clip the yarn 14. Join with purple, ch 1, 7 sc, Inc 1 sc (9) continue in a spiral way. 15. Inc 1 sc (10) 16. Inc 1 sc (11) 17. Inc 1 sc (12) 18. Inc 1 sc (13) 19. Inc 1 sc (14) 20. Inc 1 sc (15) 21. Dec 1 sc (14) 22. Dec 1 sc (13) 23. Dec 1 sc (12) Stuff the leg, put some chenille in, if necessary 24. Dec 1 sc (11) 25. Dec 1 sc (10) 26. Dec 1 sc (9) 5 Alice Bakker-Sicking
6 27. Dec 1 sc (8) 28. Dec 1 sc (7) 29. Leave the leg open, and stuff it. Sew the spikes on to the toes and heel. For moveable legs use elastic band and buttons and secure the legs to the body, close the legs. Otherwise tie up the legs to the body. Wings Make 4, two large and two smaller wings. 1. With lilac yarn, ch 26, turn, in the second stitch of the hook, 2. 8 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc,(24) turn 3. 1 ch, 7 sc, 8 hdc, 8 dc,,(24) turn 4. 2 ch, 7 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc,,(24) turn 5. 1 ch, 7 sc, 8 hdc, 8 dc,,(24) turn 6. Fasten off 7. Join with purple, ch 1, on the short side make an edge of 4 sc and an edge of 24 sc on the long side. 8. Repeat 3 times, an edge of 4 rows forms. Fasten off 9. Bend the edge double around a chenille or wire and sew it firmly to the wing, let the chenille protrude a little bit on the short side 10. Crochet a ring with sc around the protruding chenille in the edge with purple 11. Sew this ring to the body; prick the protruding chenille in the fabric of the body. 12. For the smaller wings replace 8 by 7 and the chain by 23 stitches. So you get rows of 21 st Making moveable legs You need 4 small buttons with 2 or 4 holes, by example shirt buttons and round elastic band. Take one button and put the elastic band through 2 holes. Put the elastic band in a large tapestry needle and pull it through the inner side of the leg about 10 mm from the upper edge. Pull the elastic band through the body and the inner side of the other leg on the same spot. Pull the elastic band through the holes of another button, push the button in the open leg and tie it very tight together. Fasten off and close the legs with a yarn needle. How to place the different parts The pictures on this page show how you can place the different parts of the body, like wings, arms, mandibles and legs. And how to make moveable legs with elastic band and buttons. With thanks to Ellen for reading the design through! Much fun with the pattern, Alice 6 Alice Bakker-Sicking
7 Elzeblaadje Alice Bakker-Sicking. All rights reserved. THIS PATTERN IS FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY! The pattern of parts of the pattern may not be copied or published (online and in writing) altered or sold without permission of the designer. Items may be made and sold (not online) in limited numbers by others with notice which mentioning of the pattern and designer as the source of the item. Changes and improvements can be reported at the websites. 7 Alice Bakker-Sicking
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