Freestanding Vintage Sewing Machine #12698 / 14 Files / 1 Design
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- Peter Hines
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1 #12698 / 14 Files / 1 Design Note: Some designs in this collection may have been created using unique special stitches and/or techniques. To preserve design integrity when rescaling or rotating designs in your software, always rescale or rotate designs using the handles directly on-screen Side 1 FSL 4.80 X 7.41 in X mm 59,567 St Side 2 FSL 4.80 X 7.41 in X mm 59,469 St End Piece FSL 2.38 X 4.69 in X mm 27,096 St Top & Inner Piece FSL 2.50 X 6.76 in X mm 38,332 St Head Piece FSL 2.50 X 7.76 in X mm 46,041 St Top Neck Piece FSL 2.11 X 2.84 in X mm 14,735 St Bottom Neck Piece FSL 2.13 X 2.70 in X mm 12,388 St Hand Wheel Connector FSL 1.10 X 3.98 in X mm 6,616 St Hand Wheel FSL 3.55 X 3.55 in X mm 28,899 St Foot FSL 1.58 X 1.93 in X mm 4,856 St Base Top FSL 4.50 X 8.50 in X mm 86,554 St Base Walls FSL 3.28 X 8.50 in X mm 63,235 St. It is a violation of Copyright law to make and distribute copies of electronic designs or artwork.
2 #12698 / 14 Files / 1 Design Note: Some designs in this collection may have been created using unique special stitches and/or techniques. To preserve design integrity when rescaling or rotating designs in your software, always rescale or rotate designs using the handles directly on-screen Base Walls 2 FSL 3.26 X 4.42 in X mm 32,274 St Base Floor FSA 4.50 X 8.50 in X mm 26,540 St. Listings below indicate color sample, stitching order and suggested thread color number. Most numbers indicate Isacord thread. Colors beginning with refer to YLI Fine Metallics, 7 refer to Yenmet Metallic, 8 refer to YLI Variations Variegated Thread and 9 refer to Isacord Multicolor Variegated Side 1 FSL Top Neck Piece FSL Base Top FSL n 3. Buttons and Satin Detail Side 2 FSL End Piece FSL Top & Inner Piece FSL Head Piece FSL Bottom Neck Piece FSL n 1. Dark Lace n 2. Buttons/Loops and Satin Detail Hand Wheel Connector FSL n 1. Dark Lace n 2. Buttons/Loop and Satin Detail Hand Wheel FSL n 3. Satin Detail Foot FSL n 1. Dark Lace n 2. Satin Detail Base Walls FSL Base Walls 2 FSL n 3. Loops and Satin Detail Base Floor FSA n 1. Floor Placement Stitch n 2. Cut Line and Tackdown n 3. Cover Stitch and Detail Isacord Thread Colors Used in Freestanding Vintage Sewing Machine Collection # Black 0132 Dark Pewter FSA - Freestanding Appliqué FSL - Freestanding Lace It is a violation of Copyright law to make and distribute copies of electronic designs or artwork.
3 General Freestanding Lace Guidelines Supplies: General Embroidery Thread: 1. Hoop two layers of water-soluble stabilizer. Use the same embroidery thread in the bobbin as the needle. 2. Attach the hoop to the machine and select the design of your Needles: choice. Use an Organ 80/12 Titanium needle for extended needle life. 3. Stitch the design. Stabilizer: 4. Remove the hoop from the machine and the design from the Use water-soluble stabilizer or film water-soluble stabilizer. hoop. Trim excess stabilizer from the design. 5. Rinse away remaining stabilizer and allow it to dry. Handy Hints: For Stiffer Lace: DO NOT rinse away all of the stabilizer for a stiffer lace. Note that the thread may appear a shade darker if stabilizer is not removed completely. If you happen to wash too much out, easily re-stiffen by diluting some stabilizer scraps in water and dipping the item in the solution. For Very Soft Lace: Cut away excess stabilizer. Remove remaining stabilizer by rinsing under warm running water until all traces of the stabilizer are gone. Note: If lace should become too limp to work with, dissolve stabilizer scraps in warm water and apply to the lace. Drying Lace: The lace looks best when left to dry completely. Lay lace piece with right side down to dry. This will minimize the tendency for the lace to curl. Be sure to flatten the piece out entirely and allow ample time to dry. Diagram 1 Eyelet Handy Hints: For 3D Lace Projects: Rinsing out lace with very hot water can cause wrinkles in some fabrics after it has been embroidered. To prevent this, pre-shrink cotton fabric by washing it in warm water and drying it in a dryer. If item becomes too limp to work with, iron the appliqué pieces on the wrong side while applying spray starch. After ironing, spray again with starch and allow to dry completely. This will stiffen the lace pieces nicely and aid in construction. A pair of tweezers, hemostats, stiletto or a tiny crochet hook can be extremely helpful when inserting the buttonettes into the eyelets. (Please see Diagram 1 for explanation of buttonette and eyelet.) Insert the tip of the tweezers, hemostats or crochet hook into the eyelet, grasp the buttonette and pull through the eyelet. Or a stiletto could be used to push the buttonette through the eyelet. Buttonette
4 General Freestanding Appliqué Guidelines Supplies: Embroidery Thread: Use the same embroidery thread in the bobbin as the needle. Needles: Use an Organ 80/12 Titanium needle for extended needle life. Stabilizer: Use water-soluble stabilizer or film water-soluble stabilizer. General Appliqué 1. Hoop two layers of OESD AquaMesh Stabilizer. 2. Attach the hoop to the machine and select the design of your choice. 3. Stitch the Placement Stitch. Photo 1 4. Place a piece of appliqué fabric over the Placement Stitch so that it is completely covered. 5. Stitch the Cut Line & Tackdown stitch. 6. Carefully cut away the excess appliqué fabric. Photo 2 7. Stitch the remainder of the design and repeat for any remaining pieces. Photo 3 8. Remove the hoop from the machine and the design from the hoop. 9. Trim excess stabilizer from the design. 10. Rinse away remaining stabilizer and allow it to dry face down to prevernt curling. Handy Hints Drying: Freestanding pieces look best when left to dry with right side down. This will minimize the tendency for a piece to curl. Be sure to flatten the piece out entirely and allow ample time to dry. For 3D Appliqué Projects: Adhere 1 layer of OESD StabilStick TearAway to the back of appliqué fabrics with temporary adhesive spray BEFORE hooping or placing down for tackdown and cut in place. This gives fabric a more rigid structure. A pair of tweezers, hemostats, stiletto or a tiny crochet hook can be extremely helpful when inserting the buttonettes into the eyelets. (See Diagram 1 for explanation of buttonette and eyelet.) Insert the tip of the tweezers, hemostats or crochet hook into the eyelet, grasp the buttonette and pull through the eyelet. Or a stiletto could be used to push the buttonette through the eyelet. Eyelet Buttonette Diagram Appliqué
5 Vintage Sewing Machine - Summary Requires 1 Side 1 FSL Requires 1 Side 2 FSL Requires 1 End Piece FSL Requires 1 Top & Inner Piece FSL Requires 1 Head Piece FSL Requires 1 Top Neck Piece FSL Requires 1 Bottom Neck Piece FSL Requires 1 Hand Wheel Connector FSL Requires 1 Hand Wheel FSL Requires 1 Foot FSL Requires 1 Base Top FSL Requires 1 Base Walls FSL Requires 1 Base Walls 2 FSL Requires 1 Base Floor FSA Freestanding Vintage Sewing Machine Supplies OESD AquaMesh stabilizer OESD StabilStick Tear Away (for appliqué sections) Isacord threads (use the same embroidery thread in the bobbin as the needle) Appliqué fabrics (for appliqué sections) Tea lights or pixie lights Optional: alligator clamps, tweezer, hemostats, stiletto or crochet hook Follow the General Freestanding Lace Guidelines and the General Freestanding Appliqué Guidelines to stitch the required pieces as listed in the summary above for the Vintage Sewing Machine. NOTE: The base of the machine has two holes meant to contain a battery operated tea light candles. Embroidery: Stitch one of each of all 14 designs on two layers of AquaMesh. Follow appliqué instructions for design Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Assembly Assemble Hand Wheel Using alligator clamps, pull buttonettes on Hand Wheel Connector ( ) through eyelets on Hand Wheel ( ). PHOTO 1 Next, complete Hand Wheel Connector by attaching end buttonette through end eyelet. PHOTO 2 Then, attach the Hand Wheel Connector ( ) buttonettes through End Piece eyelets ( ), positioning the ends of Hand Wheel Connector towards bottom. PHOTO 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6 Assemble Body Attach End Piece ( ) to Side 1 ( ). PHOTO 4 Repeat attaching Side 2 ( ) to End Piece ( ). PHOTO 5 Connect two buttonettes and four eyelets from Top & Inner Piece ( ) to Side 1 ( ). PHOTO 6
6 Attach Top & Inner Piece eyelets ( ) to End Piece buttonettes ( ). PHOTO 7 Connect two buttonettes and four eyelets from Top & Inner Piece ( ) to Side 2 ( ). PHOTO 8 Attach Bottom Neck Piece ( ) to Side Panels ( ) & ( ), positioning half circle on Bottom Neck Piece towards Hand Wheel. PHOTO 9 Connect Top Neck Piece ( ) to Side Panels ( ) & ( ) positioning half circle on Top Neck Piece towards Hand Wheel.. PHOTO 10 Attach Foot ( ) to Head Piece ( ). PHOTO 11 Freestanding Vintage Sewing Machine Photo 10 Photo 7 Now attach Head Piece ( ) to Side Panels ( ) & ( ). PHOTO 12 Photo 11 Photo 12 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 13 Photo 14 Assemble Base Assemble Base Walls ( ) to Base Top ( ). PHOTO 13 Now attach buttonettes and eyelets from Base Walls 2 ( ) to Base Top ( ) and Base Walls ( ). PHOTO 14 Photo 15 Attach Body Assembly to Base Assembly. PHOTOS 15 & 16 Attach Base Floor ( ) to Base Assembly. PHOTO 17 NOTE: Sewing Machine is constructed so that Top Neck Piece can be removed to insert pixie lights into machine. Photo 16 Your Vintage Sewing Machine is complete! Photo 17
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Note: Some designs in this collection may have been created using unique special stitches and/or techniques. To preserve design integrity when rescaling or rotating designs in your software, always rescale
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