Instructions For Installing A Pig Fence
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1 Instructions For Installing A Pig Fence A Multi-wire Fence on a Single Line of Posts Height: 18 Inches Polywire for seasonally removable fences Aluminum wire for permanent fences These pages provide the following: A list of items needed to set up the fences described Step-by-step installation instructions Maintenance tips 1 of 10
2 Products Needed: Electric Fence Charger 1 joule power rating Fiberglass posts, 3/8-inch diameter 27 inches long If fencing in pigs: enough so that no posts are separated by more than 15 feet If keeping out feral pigs & javelinas: posts separated by no more than 10 feet Insulators - clip-on style for 3/8 inch diameter fiberglass posts: No. of fiberglass posts x no. of wires on the fence = Number needed Wire - 16 ga. aluminum electric fence wire OR electric fence polywire: To keep out Javelinas (or other feral pigs) use 14 ga. aluminum wire Length of fence x no. of wires on fence = Length needed Insulated Hookup Wire: (1) if AC charger: distance from AC outlet to the fence, and/or (2) if there is more than 1 gate or if the fence is otherwise interrupted, then: the width of each gate to be crossed + 8 feet = Length Needed Wire to Wire Connectors: Split-bolt clamp style: (1 to connect charger to fence) + (2 x no. of gates x no. of wires) + (1 per time you need to join two pieces of wire) = Number needed Polywire Tensioners (only if using polywire): 1 tensioner per every hundred feet of polywire on your fence Gate Handles: No. of gates x no. of wires on fence = Number needed Ground Rod: Use a 2-foot rod if the whole fence will be within 300 feet of the rod, if any part of the fence will be more than 300 feet away, use a 6-foot rod and clamp Warning Signs: Use one of these at all places where people might be surprised by the fence 2 of 10
3 Fence Tester: You need at least a 5-lite tester; and for a precise reading you need a digital tester Supplies Needed: Gardening gloves Knife Wire Cutters Hammer Trowel Twist Ties or Nails Installing the Fence: 1. Clear the path over which the fence will run. 2. Attach clip-on insulators to each fiberglass line post at each height where you want a wire to run. Do this when the temperature is above 40º F in order not to risk cracking the insulators. Or, if you must install in the cold, bring the insulators over to each post in a bowl of warm water. 3. Insert your fiberglass posts nine inches into the ground, spaced so that there is no more than 15 feet between any two of them. (Space them 10 feet apart or less if you re trying to keep out feral pigs or javelinas) If you need to pound a fiberglass post in with a hammer, put a small board between the hammer and the top of the post to avoid marring the post top. 3 of 10
4 4. Start stringing your fence wire: Start at the right side of a gate post, running the wire all around the insulator. If it is metal wire, twist the end of the wire around the outgoing wire tightly several times in order to fix it firmly on the insulator, but leave a small gap large enough for your gate handle to hook into once you ve strung wire all around the fence. If it is polywire, secure the end of the wire to the outgoing wire with a split-bolt clamp close to the insulator, but leave a small gap large enough for your gate handle to hook into once you ve strung wire all around the fence. Proceed to run the wire all around the fence, hanging it from each clip-on fiberglass post insulator. Pull the wire reasonably tight manually as you go. 5. Stringing corner insulators: When you reach your corners, wind the wire around the insulator and post a few extra times to stabilize it before moving on. 6. Terminating the wire at the gates: When you reach a gate, run the metal wire or polywire around the insulator several times to secure it. DO NOT cut the wire at this point. Instead, figure out how much wire is needed to span the gate opening and cut the wire at that point. 7. Attaching the wire to the gate handles: Thread the end of the wire through the hole at the back of a gate handle, arranging things so that the gate handle can hook onto the space you left on the other side of the gate when you began stringing the wire. If you are using metal wire, twist the wire several times around itself at the back of the gate handle to secure the wire to the gate handle. If you are using polywire, connect the two polywires at the back of the gate handle with a split-bolt clamp to secure the polywire to the gate handle. Remove any excess wire at the back of the gate handle with wire cutters. 8. Finish stringing the wire: Begin a new run of wire on the far side of this gate (the side where the gate handle hooks in). Continue to string your wire around the fence until you reach the place on the fence where you started, and terminate the wire. 4 of 10
5 9. Deal with wire sag: Straighten the areas where the fence wire is running lower than you want it to. If using metal wire, tighten and raise it by taking an extra turn or two around a nearby fiberglass post (fiberglass is an insulator) or by twisting one of the wire s clip-on insulators around the post a few times. If you are using polywire, apply a polywire tensioner at this point to create the desired tightness. 10. Post the warning signs: This should be done on or near the fence, giving special attention to places where people are likely to be surprised by the fence. 11. Choose a spot for the ground rod: This is best done in a place where the soil is generally moist during the seasons when the fence will be working, is close to the fence, and that is also reasonably close to the electric fence charger. This spot should also be at least 50 feet away from the grounding system associated with your home s electric service. 12. Hammering in the ground rod: Pound the rod (thread end up if you are installing the 2-footer) into the ground until only about 4 inches protrude. If you are installing the 2-footer, place a board between the hammer and the top of the rod to avoid damaging the threads. If you are installing the 6-footer, slip its clamp over the top of it after it has been pounded into the ground, undoing the clamp s tightening screws a bit if necessary. 13. Going under gates or gaps in your fence: Should there be a place where a building or wall interrupts your fence, or should you have more than one gate, you will need to use insulated undergate and hookup wire and split-bolt clamps to connect together all the independent sections of your fence. 5 of 10
6 To connect two sections of your fence across a gap/gate opening with hookup wire, cut a length of hookup wire nine feet wider than your gate opening. Carefully strip an inch of insulation off each end with a sharp knife. Attach one end to the fence wire at one side of your gate with a split-bolt clamp. Now take the hookup wire across the gate opening, burying it a few inches underground to keep it away from feet and lawnmowers. Bring the hookup wire up on the other side of the gate and attach its bare end to the fence wire with a splitbolt clamp. If vehicles will be coming through the gate it s a good idea to put the hookup wire through a pipe to protect the insulation against cracking and also a good idea to put some holes in the bottom of the pipe to ensure drainage. DO NOT replace the hookup wire with regular insulated wire designed to carry house current, because the charger s output, though harmless, has too high a voltage to be contained by house current wire, and so this substitution will prevent your fence from working. 14. Spreading the charge on each independent fence section: For each independent section of fence (including the first one) you must spread the charge between all of your wires. Do this using short sections of wire (bare or insulated) and split bolt clamps; ensure that all of your conductors are connected to one another for each independent section. Charger/Energizer Installation and Trouble-shooting: 1. Remove the fence charger/energizer from its package: upon opening, read the installation instructions; including the safety provisions. Never by-pass the charger, and never use an extension cord carrying house current outdoors in connection with this kit because house current is dangerous and can create life-threatening situations. 6 of 10
7 Note that charger instructions are commonly written for cattle fences extending many miles in dry conditions. They often recommend installing multiple 8-foot ground rods. Unless you are operating in the desert or tundra, you don t need so much grounding. 2. Place your charger/energizer: a. If your charger is AC-powered, plug it into an AC outlet near the fence, arranging things so that you have enough insulated hookup wire to reach from the charger to the fence. If your charger is being placed outdoors: Prolong the charger s life by providing some protection from the weather (rain and snow). This can be done with wooden housing or with something as simple as the bottom of a 1 gallon plastic milk bottle, with a small vent cut in it. If the charger is being placed indoors Provide a small hole through a wall or woodwork that is large enough to admit the insulated hookup wire. Do not pass the insulated hookup wire through a door or window opening, as this is likely to cause bending or other stress that could break the insulation. b. If your charger is battery-powered, get either D-cell batteries or a deep cycle battery of the appropriate voltage; these batteries (in contrast to car batteries) can be drawn down fully before being recharged. Locate the charger near the fence and connect it to your battery. Prolong the charger s life by providing some protection from the weather (rain and snow). This can be done with wooden housing or with something as simple as the bottom of a 1 gallon plastic milk bottle, with a small vent cut in it. c. If your charger is solar-powered, orient it so that its solar panel catches maximum sun and place the charger near the fence. Allow it some time to charge before testing it. 7 of 10
8 3. Test the charger/energizer: Plug in or turn on the charger/energizer; many have lights, meters, or clicking noises when activated. Use your fence tester to touch both the positive and negative terminals simultaneously, and the tester should activate. If it does not activate, you may have a problem with your battery/outlet/charger. Run control tests to see if you have a defective battery/outlet. If still unresponsive, the problem is likely with the charger, and you should call the charger s maker. 4. Connect the positive (+) terminal to the fence wire: Unplug or turn off the charger. If you are using insulated hookup wire, strip 2 inches of insulation from it. Attach the wire to your charger s POSITIVE (+) terminal. Run that wire out to the fence. Attach the other end of the connection wire to the fence wire with a split-bolt clamp. If you are using insulated wire, put it an inch or so underground to keep it safe from feet and lawnmowers. Or else, if heavy traffic passes over the hookup wire at any point, put the wire through a well-drained underground pipe to protect it. 5. Connect the negative (-) terminal to the ground rod: Take a connection wire (either bare or insulated) that is long enough to reach from the top of the ground rod to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal on your electric fence charger. If you have our two-foot ground rod, thread the two nuts onto the ground rod. Open a space between the two nuts, loop the wire around the ground rod in this space, and tighten the nuts so that the wire cannot move. If you have a 6-foot rod, tighten the clamp on the top of the rod with the two screws and unscrew the top screw until the hole below it is fully open. Slip the wire into the attachment hole and then tighten the top screw until the wire cannot move. Then attach the other end of the connection wire to the electric fence charger s NEGATIVE (-) terminal. 8 of 10
9 Make sure that NOTHING attached to the charger s positive (+) terminal including the charged fence wire has been connected directly or indirectly to the charger s negative terminal. The positively charged system (positive terminal, hookup wire, fence wire) must be kept entirely separate from the negative system (negative terminal, ground wire, ground rod, moisture in the ground). That s because the target animal will get a shock when it provides a bridge between the two systems. If the systems are already hitched together, or if weeds leaning on the fence provide a better bridge between the two systems than the animal does, then the target animal will not get a shock. 6. Test your fence: Take your fence tester and check the fence wire at various points along the fence line to be sure you have at least 2 kilovolts on the line. Do this by inserting the tester s needle (at the end of the cord) into moist ground and then touching the metal tip at the top of the tester to the charged wire. The tester should register at least 2 kilovolts. If it doesn t, even though the charger s light is flashing, check all the connections on the fence to ensure that a good flow of charge is being maintained across all these connections. Once the tester is registering at least 2 kilovolts along the whole fence line, your fence is operating in a suitable manner. Maintenance Tips: The soil just outside the charged wire should be damp enough so that any animal touching the wire will be grounded. Wetting the fence line area during periods when the soil seems dry should help to accomplish this (remember to first turn off the charger to avoid a shock). Be aware that animal impacts, falling branches, or plants leaning on the charged wire can neutralize your system. Therefore, inspect periodically for downed posts or lines and for encroaching vines, grasses, or other plants in order to minimize times when the fence is out of action. 9 of 10
10 Finally, please note the following seasonal limitations of your system: An AC-powered charger can operate through the winter, though a more robust grounding system (like a metal grounding mesh) may be needed in winter, because very low temperatures can freeze the ground water and neutralize the grounding system. A battery-powered or solar-powered charger will be less effective in cold winter seasons, partly because of reduced sunlight and partly because chemical storage batteries tend to operate at less than full efficiency in cold weather. 10 of 10
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