How to Hard- Wire your Zumo 665 to the Slingshot Infotainment Center

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1 How to Hard- Wire your Zumo 665 to the Slingshot Infotainment Center You need a Zumo 665 kit that comes with Your Zumo 665. If you left it on a bike that you traded, then go to garmin. com or Amazon. com and order a Ram Ball Mount. Follow every step that I posted for a Zumo 660 installation. Stop short of drilling any holes. Once you have the Ram-Ball mounted to the windscreen support, and the Ram-Ball attached to the back of the Harness terminal strip, you are ready to attach the linking swivel component. Adjust it so that the thumb screw is convenient for you. I positioned mine on the right side. Now you have a sturdy motorcycle mount, made for motorcycles, in place and at eye level. Polaris could not have created a better place for a GPS mount!! OK, you have a considerably long harness cord to work with. On this cord you have a 12 volt power lead with a fuse compartment. You have a 3.5mm female jack. This is your Zumo 665 audio output. You will have a 2.5mm female jack. This is a microphone jack. You won t use this. Lastly, you will have a mini usb connector. This is for your GXM40 Smart antenna. Remove the four Torx screws that hold the IC faceplate. Carefully pull the Infotainment LCD module out. If you don t feel comfortable unplugging B & D cables, then simply leave it hanging there. You can work around it. If you do unplug B & D cables, they are labeled. Take care in putting them back in their proper ports. The LCD module is also labeled. It may not even be possible to plug them back into the wrong ports. Caution is advised. OK. Now find the small gray plug that runs toward the engine compartment with B cable. This small gray plug is the Navigation Input to the Infotainment Center. This is the ONLY plug you will be working on. Pull it out of the compartment as far as you can. There should be plenty of room outside the compartment to work on this plug. Next, look for a large removable capping grommet on the passenger side of the Infotainment Center Compartment. Pull that out with a putty knife or your fingernails. You may need a flashlight to formulate a route for your cable. You will need to pop the hood on your SS. Shining you flashlight in the hole and looking in the IC compartment will give you a good idea what you need to do. First, you will push the cable end through the hole. You may need to tape the individual cable leads together to make things easier. Once you first see the cable coming into the engine compartment, pull up as much of the cable as possible. Keep in mind that later on you will need some slack to dress up the visible part of the cable by the passenger seat. Try to find a way into the back of the IC compartment without wrapping around hoses and engine components. Take the shortest route back into the IC compartment.

2 Now you have your cable in the IC compartment. So you are getting there. Don t do any dress up of cables just yet. Later, you will be routing your GXM40 cable in the same fashion you routed you Zumo 665 harness cable. You have choices at this junction. Mount the GXM40 or do you terminations. Let s go ahead with the terminations. Look closely at the small gray plug you will be removing. Look closely at the picture I posted of the Victory harness. There is a plastic guide post. This is just for plug alignment. Take note of the wires to the left & right of this guide post. YOU WILL NOT USE THESE TWO WIRES. They are + and - 12 volts. They work as power input for the 660, but will not work for the 665. Next, look at the opposite end of the small gray plug. You will see three wires. These wires are your navigation audio input to the IC processor. You will need to carefully pull back the plugs harness wrapping to get a good look at the wire colors and tracers. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT! The center wire in that group of three wires is the NAV audio common. The wires on each side are NAV left speaker audio and NAV right speaker audio. Write these identities down. I d love to tell you the wire colors & tracers, but I don t have that information in front of me. Please remove the ignition key before you proceed. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. I Next you will want to get a 3.5mm male jack. I cut one off of a cable I had. Find the heaviest cable available. Larger conductors are easier to crimp connectors to. Carefully pull the outer jacket off with a wire strippers. You will have a bare wire (audio common) and two insulated wires. These are left channel & right channel wires. If you don t have three wires, then you have a mono cable. (NO GOOD) Strip the two insulated wires back enough to be able to crimp my recommended terminals to the wire. Since the wires are so small, I stripped them longer, twisted them and folded them back to double the wire size. Now plug you pigtail into the Zumo mm jack. You have made your adapter! OK. Progress! THE KEY IS OUT OF THE IGNITION. You are close to getting the critical part done. I found a perfect product for this project. They are a Sta-Con or T&B product. I will post the link that tells you which ones to order. Basically, they are totally insulated. They are mating connectors. Very small. They allow you to disconnect your connections, say, if your Zumo 665 harness goes bad. Make every effort to use them. Also, get a proper crimping tool, not a pair of pliers. Your insulated crimp connectors will have both male and female terminals. Find three male termination connectors. Crimp them onto the three leads from your audio out adaptor from your Zumo. (The pigtail you made) Fold the wires as I suggested. Slide them in until you know they are in far enough. Crimp, them and give a gentle a tug to make sure that they stay in place. If you really want to avoid a screw-up, grab a pair of diagonal wire cutters. Deal with those two wires first. They are the 12 volt + & - wires that are poison to this installation. You cannot use them to power the 665. It has something to do with differences in the Victory 660 & the 665 harness circuit board You will be getting 12 volts elsewhere, which I will get into later. Remember, they are the two wires next to the guide post. I suggest that you crimp a red butt splice on each one to remind that you aren t using them. You have to isolate them and you have insulated them. They carry 12 volts. Next, snip one of the three wires from the bottom of theplug. Start with the center wire (common) Crimp a female termination connector to this wire after you have it stripped. Now plug the bare shielded wire into the female connector you just worked on. You have now safely made a path from your Zumo 665 audio

3 output common to the audio input common of the IC navigation input. You only have two more wires to deal with. Left channel and right channel. It makes no difference how you connect these. If you decide that you want to switch these later, you can. As long as you use the connectors I suggest. Now you are finished with the hard part. You have completed your Zumo665 audio output path to your IC navigation input You could test it at this point. You will have to manually boot up the Zumo and boot up the IC. Play a tune. As long as you made good, solid connections you should probably push on with this project. OK, let s deal with the 12 volt power source issue. I chose NOT to cut into any of the SS s internal wiring harnesses for power. I hope you don t either. If you do, thing will get messy. So far you have done a very clean job. You are only messing with one little plug.this is what I did for my 12 volt power to my Zumo665. I took the Zumo 665 power lead back out of the engine compartment. I carefully routed it over to the location of the 12 volt convenience outlet that is in the glove box. I was careful to route it in the same fashion as the harness cable. Don t wrap it around engine components that might get hot. Once you get it over there, get your flashlight again and you will see the back side of that 12 volt convenience outlet. There are two removable female terminals on the outlet power supply posts. The one that sticks straight out is the common. The other one that is bent towards the driver side is + 12 volts. This is where you will get the 12 volts + & - for your Zumo 665. There is no voltage on these wires with the ignition off. Make sure you your key is out of the ignition. Buy a box of red but splices. You need them to isolate those unuseable 12 volt conductors anyway. Pull the 12 volt negative wire off of the post. Snip the wire about 2 inches back from the female connector you just unplugged. You are going to crimp the red butt splice to this tail. You will have the Zumo665 negative wire & the wire coming from the SS fuse box to work with next. Strip & twist those two wires together and stick them in the other end of the butt splice. Tug the wires to verify a good connection. You have just made a clean, three wire connection. Do the same procedure with the 12 volts positive conductors. You now have a 12 volt + & - path from the SS fuse block to the glove box convenience outlet and your Zumo 665. Congratulations! When you turn the key on, your GPS will immediately boot up on its own. Now take and push the excess power lead back into the IC compartment. I have a note on this. The connectors on the back of the convenience outlet where you got your power cannot be connected in a fashion where reverse polarity could occur. The male blades are different widths. I strongly urge you to first verify polarity with a millimeter. If my memory serves me correctly, the center post of the convenience outlet is 12 volts negative. CORRECT POLARITY IS ESSENTIAL!! Now, for the really fun part. All you need is mechanical skills. You have safely Hard-Wired your Zumo to your Infotainment Center. Navigation input is a done deal.!2 volts to power your Zumo 665 is a done deal. Next we will install the GXM40 Smart Antenna. I spoke with Garmin and they said the best mounting position is straight up to the sky. Also, it must be at least 4 inches from your Zumo. I chose to mount mine immediately behind the windscreen center brace. Don t try to stick it on with any kind of adhesives. You will only fail at when you try that. It won t stick to vinyl. PERIOD! Your antenna kit should have an oblong metal plate available for use. Bolt it to the GXM40. You will have two screw holes on each side of it. (Please refer to the pictures I have posted here. Forget about the hole I drilled in the dash. That was my bad!! I thought the Victory harness would work for me until I realized the

4 Victory harnesses mini usb wasn t for the GXM40. I went ahead and used the hole for my GXM40 and was lucky to close the hole up like I did. But I digress. This isn t your concern. Your antenna wire will run with your Zumo 665 cable and on into the IC compartment. OK. Your key is out of the ignition. Your hood is still open. Now you want to look for three torx screws that hold the windscreen in place. First remove the screw that holds the windscreen to the center support. Then remove the three larger Torx screws. Lift the windscreen out of the three tabs on the SS body. Set the windscreen to the side. This is the only way to bolt your antenna to the dash top. It is remarkably easy (THANK YOU, POLARIS). You still have your IC Module removed or hanging their by two cables. You have to reach pretty far in to put the nuts on the bolts you will be using. I snapped the IC frame out for more room. I was able to use two brass screws & nuts and get it bolted in place with the right wrenches. You should not have to worry about drilling into any wiring in that area. But please check. You may decide to use other fastening devices. But I felt that sheet metal screws would work their way loose over time. Either way, use stainless steel or brass fasteners. Once your antenna is bolted in place, route the lead cable along with the Zumo 665 cable. Once it is in the IC compartment, plug it into the mini usb cable on the Zumo 665 harness. All of your connections are made. Replace the windscreen. You might find that the retaining nuts have slid off to the side. Take a screwdriver and slide them back into position. Now dress your two cables together. You may want to buy a bag of small black tie-wraps. Black is important. They are rated for outdoor use. I tucked my cable up under the red section of the dash top. You can t see them. I ran the cable down and dressed it back up high in the passenger area. You can t see it without standing on your head. I then cut a small notch it that large rubber cap (Grommet) Cut it as small as possible for the best possible seal. As long as all of your excess slack is in the IC compartment, you can close the hood. All right, then. Snap the IC frame back in place. Carefully push the IC module back in place, right side up, reattach the IC module frame, and I think your are done!! I wish that everyone enjoys their job as much as I did. It kept me out of trouble!! I wish for everyone to take their time and not get in a rush. And if this detail is TMI, I apologize. I wanted to make it possible for anyone and everyone to make it happen. I don t know what individual skills are. Zumo 665, I don t tour without mine!! Ed Sadlo TURN ON THE KEY, WATCH YOUR 665 BOOT UP, PLAY SOME MP3 S,TEST YOUR XM, PROGRAM A ROUTE TO SE IF YOU HAVE THE NAVIGATION DIRECTION INTERRUPTIONS. IT WILL ALL WORK, AS IT SHOULD. YOU CAN LISTEN TO YOUR USB INPUT AND STILL GET NAVIGATION INSTRUCTION INTERRUPTIONS.

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