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1 ORIOLE BIRDING TOUR REPORT STRAIT OF Gibraltar & Northern Morocco 25 th 30 rd april

2 TOUR LEADER Javi Elorriaga PARTICIPANTS Paul Adrian Craddock Sharon Doris Craddock David William Elliott Jean Elliott Lawrence David Hurst Raymond Lumley Ruby Lumley TUESDAY 25 TH APRIL 2017 The group reached Malaga airport 15 minutes ahead schedule, met Javi and by 10:30 a.m. we were unpacking our optical gear at the nearby Guadalhorce River Mouth Reserve, ready to start birding. Blue skies, temperatures above 23ºC and a light sea breeze made a perfect welcome to region. Numerous Serin, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Spotless Starling, Pallid Swift, Barn Swallow, House Martin and a Hoopoe made the first birds of the trip. As we approached the river bank, Sardinian Warbler, Citing Zisticola, Cetti s Warbler, Nightingale, European Reed Warbler and Great Reed Warbler joined in the scene. The distinctive call of a Western Bonelli s Warbler drew our attention and it took us a few minutes before we got good views and pictures of it. Several Spanish Terrapins of very different sizes were basking on the shore. White-headed Duck in courtship display. Guadalhorce River Mouth, Malaga. 25 th April. Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

3 We had a picnic lunch in one of the observatories while observing the foraging flights of several Whiskered Terns, a single Black Tern and a pair of very obliging Black-winged Stilts. From the next observatory we got striking views of a group of 6 male White-headed Ducks displaying around a single female. In our way back to the minibus a group of Bee-eaters flew overhead and several noisy Monk Parquets passed by. After this excellent introduction to the Mediterranean bird community and a coffee break we drove 1.5 hours to the Strait of Gibraltar. Here, moderate Westerlies and excellent visibility of the African coast (just 14km apart from Europe) leaded to very enjoyable passage of raptors sea-crossing from Africa to Europe. Numerous groups of Black Kites flew low over the ocean to reach the European coast. Among them, several Short-toed Eagles, Booted Eagles, Montagu s Harriers, Sparrowhawks a single Hobby and Egyptian Vultures in different plumages were widely enjoyed as well. Remarkably, we were fortunate to observe several groups of Griffons Vultures struggling to cross the Ocean back from Africa (see the cover photo). Indeed, the Griffon Vulture migration is one of the most spectacular sights that the Strait offers to nature enthusiasts and, surprisingly, it has been widely overlooked by the birding community. In about one hour of observation we got no less than 300 migrant raptors, some of which came at really close range. The local pair of Red-rumped Swallow, probably excited by the presence of so many potential predators, was very active in the area. Adult Booted Eagle, pale morph in active migration from Africa. 25 th April In the afternoon, we continued to Tarifa, the flagship town of the Strait of Gibraltar and our base to explore the region in the coming days. We enjoyed refreshments at the terrace of the hotel followed by an excellent dinner and a well disserved night-sleep. Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

4 WEDNESDAY 26 TH APRIL 2017 We started the day with excellent weather and a short walk in evergreen shrub not far from our hotel. Corn Bunting, Crested Lark, Woodchat Shrike and Nightingale were abundant and we came through one of the first Spotted Flycatchers of the year in the region. Next we visited the nearby Sierra de La Plata and Bolonia in El Estrecho Natural Park. As we stepped out of the van, a male Blue Rock Thrush landed atop a rock. Here we got excellent views of Griffon Vultures rearing their young at their nests and enjoyed the splendid views of the Strait of Gibraltar, the African coast and the sand dunes. We spend some time observing a pair of Cirl Bunting and a family group of Continental Stonechats (rubicola). We heard the calling of both Iberian Green Woodpecker and Greater-spotted Woodpecker. Then we approached the beach to take a look to the impressive Roman Archaeological site of Baelo Claudia, including its temple and amphitheatre. Here numerous Spanish Pond Terrapins and Viperine Snakes offered good views in a pond. Blue Rock Thrush in Sierra de La Plata, Tarifa. 26th April At noon we moved to Tarifa and visited the small breeding colony of Lesser Kestrel before embarking in a whalewatching trip. As we navigated towards the central channel of the Strait, halfway between Europe and Africa, we came through an immature Northern Gannet, a Great Skua and some Cory s Shearwaters and Black Terns. We where enjoying close up views of a mixed pod of Bottlenose Dolphins and Long-finned Pilot Whales when the unmistakable bushy blow of a Sperm Whale broke in the horizon. The group enjoyed unbeatable and lengthy views of this massive mammal before it raised its tailstock on sinking into deep dive. What a stunner! Back on land, we had a break before birding north of Tarifa during the afternoon. We failed our first attempt to find Little Owls. However, we did soon found consolation with a magnificent Eagle Owl at its preferred roost. Moreover, we were fortunate to find the rare Spoon-winged Lacewing (Nemoptera bipennis), an endemic insect in the Iberian Peninsula. Other highlights in the area included a pair of Montagu s Harriers patrolling their breeding territory, Spanish Sparrows, Thekla Larks Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

5 and multiple Calandra Larks. By mid afternoon we returned to our hotel and completed a notably diverse checklist of species in front a beer. A massive Sperm-whale sinking into deep dive with the coast of Morocco in the background. Strait of Gibraltar. 26 th April THURSDAY 27 TH APRIL 2017 The third day of the tour dawned in clouds and cleared during the morning with mild temperatures. After breakfast we drove 30 miles north from Tarifa to explore La Janda region. La Janda, formerly one of the largest lagoons in Europe, shows nowadays an agricultural landscape with an interesting mosaic of habitats including flooded rice paddies, extensive pastures and shrub. Indeed, this is one of the best birding spots in southern Spain. It didn t take long until we found the first male and female Montagu s Harriers of the local population. Zitting Cisticola and Calandra, Crested and Shorttoed Larks were all very well represented in the area offering great views and performing their characteristic calls and songs. We got good views of a rather elusive Little Owl. Other raptor species included Griffon Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Booted Eagle, Common Buzzard, Marsh Harrier and, above all, a superb Black Shouldered Kite, both in active hunting flight and perched. Red-legged Partridges, Bee Eaters and a Crested Lark showed up well in different spots of the itinerary and we did even found a nest. A single Common Quail was calling from the pastures and a two Turtle Doves flew in front of our van. We made a strategic visit to a little pond where two Purple Swamphens were hiding in the reeds. Not far we had a good time observing and photographing a very large egret colony where hundreds of Cattle Egrets and an increasing number of Glossy Ibises breed. Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

6 Adult Glossy Ibis in La Janda. 27 th April Adult Cattle Egret in striking breeding plumage in La Janda. 27 th April In the reedbed at the edges of the main irrigation channel of La Janda we found Cetti s Warblers, and Great Reed Warbler and yet another Blak-shouldered Kite. Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

7 Back in the national road we drove 20 minutes to Vejer De La Frontera to visit the breeding colony of Northern Bald Ibis, one of the rarest species on the planet. This colony is the result of a successful reintroduction project and in late April we found it plenty of activity with over 15 active nests. The possibility to observe this rare species at very close range with adult birds fully engaged in their breeding activities is only possible here and provided an amazing and nearly surrealistic experience. Adult Northern Bald Ibis on its nest. Strait of Gibraltar, 27 th April After a break at the locally famous Venta Pinto Restaurant we moved to the neighbouring Barbate Marshes. This is a former salt-pan nowadays turned into a fish farm. The highlight here was the large and vivid colony of Collared Pratincoles which were present all over the place providing excellent views. Among them we found a cryptic Stone Curlew. Other remarkable species included Great White Egret, Eurasian Spoonbill, Greater Flamingo, Eurasian Curlew and Little Tern. We then focused our attention in the surrounding fields and found a very showy Tawny Pipit and some Woodchat Shrikes, Corn Buntings, Serin, Goldfinch, Linnet, Common Redstart, Sardinian Warbler, and Spanish Sparrows perched in wires. Hidden within a group of Tamarisks we came through Willow Warbler and a Western Olivaceous Warbler. We returned to Tarifa in the mid-afternoon and had an excellent meal in the terrace of La Pescadería restaurant, well-known for its speciality in arroz marinero (rice with seafood). From the restaurant we just walked to the port and embarked in the fast ferry to Tangier, where we arrived one hour and a half later. Once in the port of Tangier we took two petit-taxi directly to the nearby Rembrandt Hotel for a well deserved rest. Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

8 FRIDAY 28 ST APRIL 2017 The day broke with rain in Tangier where we had a nice breakfast with Moroccan specialities before heading south along the Atlantic coast to Sidi Bourghaba Lagoon. Fortunately, the weather dramatically changed and the sun was signing in the Lagoon. Walking along the shore we easily found an interesting array of wildfowl including family groups of White-headed Duck, Marbled Teal, Red-crested Pochard and incredibly tame Red-knobbed Coots feeding their young. Ferruginous Ducks were scarce but showed equally well. Here we heard and observed the first Common Bulbuls of the trip and a very obliging African Blue Tit approached the group while we were having our picnic. Long Skimmer dragonflies were rather abundant all over the place. Purple Heron and Purple Swamp-Hen made other remarkable sightings and Marsh Harriers and Black kites provided unbeatable views. Before leaving the place we came through several African Magpies with their characteristic deep blue spot behind the eye. We reached Moulay Bouselham in the early afternoon and met our local guide, the well-known Hassan Dalil. After refreshment we calmly walked to the port scanning the scrub and got excellent views of a Laughing Dove and several African Chaffinches. Next we embarked in two boats to explore the Merja Zerga estuary. Waders where well represented including Whimbrel, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Common ringed Plover, Sanderling, Common Sandpiper and Ruddy Turnstone. Pleasantly navigating we observed a group of Flamingos, Collared Pratincoles and got remarkable views of Little Terns diving for fish around the boat. However, the highlight came in the form of a Lesser Crested Tern roosting in a sandbank with Sandwich Terns and immature Audouin s Gulls. The Slender-billed Gull was probably our main missed target so far. Exploring the Merja Zerga Lagoon by boat, minutes before finding the Lesser Crested Tern, 28 th April Back on land we approached a nearby farmland at dusk and luckily enough we got brief but still very convincing views of the rare Marsh Owl at their foraging ground by the end of the day. Fully satisfied we had some nice Tajine for dinner and headed to our Hotel in Larache. Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

9 SATURDAY 29 ND APRIL 2017 We started the day visiting the Medina (Old Town) of the port city of Larache. Here, we enjoyed the aerial skills and callings of Little Swifts around their breeding colony and a Common Bulbul showed up as well. We next visited the nearby Lower Loukos Marshes. We had good birding despite the showers and the considerable human-induced alteration that this wetland is suffering. Indeed, Oued Loukos does still offer some of the best birding in northern Morocco. In the first stops we found one of our main target species, the Brown-throated Martin. The distinctive song of a Savi s Warbler was noticeable and, after some search, we manage to observe one. Unfortunately we were not that lucky with the Moustached Warbler and we had to be satisfied with its callings from the reedbed. We found a notable number of Yellow Wagtail of the Iberian type with their distinctive bluish head pattern. The shore of the wetland hold a variety of water birds including a single and locally scarce Temmincks Stint, several groups of Red-Knobbed Coots, Ruff, Black-tailed Godwit, Common Redshank, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper and several striking Caspian Terns. Not far we scoped a Stone Curlew and plenty of Collared Pratincoles. A Turtle Dove was another celebrated observation. By the late morning, in our way back to Tangier, we added Long-legged Buzzard and Southern Grey Shrike to the trip list and visited Asilah, which is considered one of the most charming villages in Morocco. We had an excellent lunch and beer in a terrace and chilled-out in the pretty-as-a-postcard Medina. Here, the ancient ramparts built by the Portuguese in the 15 th century offered excellent views of the Atlantic Ocean and we found a group of Ruddy Turnstones. Back in Tangier we visited the vivid traditional market in the narrow streets of the Medina and easily connected with our last Moroccan target, the very tame House Bunting. The minivan was waiting for us at the opposite end of the main street ready to take us to the port. We said goodbye to our driver Rachid and took the ferry back to Europe. We completed the checklist of the day while in the Ferry and reached Tarifa by the late afternoon ready for dinner. SUNDAY 30 th APRIL 2017 The last day of our tour we had very nice weather with blue skies, mild temperatures and moderate westerly wind. Our first stop was at Los Lances beach, within El Estrecho Natural Park, just a mile away from our hotel. In the sandy soil of the surrounding Rock Pine forest we found several Twoleaved Gennaria, a very rare Orchid in the continent. Next we followed a wooden walkway along the beach. We enjoyed striking views of the Moroccan coast and the southernmost tip of the European continent in Tarifa, where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. Here we found Kentish Plover, Red Knot, Little Stint and very abundant Yellow-legged Gulls. In the mid morning, already in our way to Malaga airport, we had another short walk, this time in a Cork-oak forest. Firecrest and Iberian Chiffchaff were the highlights and we got excellent views feeding on a bird table Next we continued to the airport with strategic stops in advantage points overviewing the Strait. A Short-toed Eagle of the resident population, several Red-rumped Swallows, very abundant Pallid Swifts and an unfortunately road killed Red-necked Nightjar, along with a group of Black Storks and several Black Kites and Honey Buzzards in active northbound migration from Africa made an interesting farewell to the Strait of Gibraltar. We reached the airport in the early afternoon and the group returned home in an uneventful flight. Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

10 The Sperm-Whale getting ready to sink into deep dive in the Strait of Gibraltar. 26 th April 2017 Part of a pod of Long-finned Pilot Whales off Tarifa. 26 th April Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

11 Male Lesser Kestrel in Tarifa. 27 th April Adult Eagle Owl at its roost in the Strait of Gibraltar. 26 th April Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

12 Corn Bunting in La Janda. 26 th April Calandra Lark at Barbate Marshes. 27 th April 2016 Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

13 Red-legged Partridge in La Janda. 27 th April Black Kite in active migration across the Strait of Gibraltar. 25 th April Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

14 SYSTEMATIC LIST 1. Little Grebe 2. Great Crested Grebe 3. Cory's Shearwater 4. Northern Gannet 5. Great Cormorant 6. Cattle Egret 7. Little Egret 8. Great White Egret 9. Grey Heron 10. Purple Heron 11. Black Stork 12. White Stork 13. Northern Bald Ibis 14. Glossy Ibis 15. Eurasian Spoonbill 16. Greater Flamingo 17. Gadwall 18. Mallard 19. Marbled Duck 20. Red Crested Pochard 21. Common Pochard 22. Ferruginous Duck 23. Ring-necked Duck 24. White-headed Duck 25. Honey Buzzard 26. Black-shouldered Kite 27. Black Kite 28. Egyptian Vulture 29. European Griffon Vulture 30. Short-toed Eagle 31. Marsh Harrier 32. Montagu's Harrier 33. Eurasian Sparrowhawk 34. Common Buzzard 35. Long-legged Buzzard 36. Booted Eagle 37. Lesser Kestrel 38. Common Kestrel 39. Eurasian Hobby 40. Red-legged Partridge 41. Barbary Partridge 42. Common Quail 43. Common Moorhen 44. Common Coot 45. Red-knobbed Coot Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

15 46. Purple Swamp-Hen 47. Eurasian Oystercatcher 48. Black-winged Stilt 49. Pied Avocet 50. Stone Curlew 51. Collared Pratincole 52. Little Ringed Plover 53. Common Ringed Plover 54. Kentish Plover 55. Grey Plover 56. Red Knot 57. Sanderling 58. Little Stint 59. Temmnick s Stint 60. Dunlin 61. Ruff 62. Black-tailed Godwit 63. Whimbrel 64. Eurasian Curlew 65. Common Redshank 66. Common Greenshank 67. Common Sandpiper 68. Wood Sandpiper 69. Ruddy Turnstone 70. Great Skua 71. Audouin's Gull 72. Black-headed Gull 73. Lesser Black-backed Gull 74. Yellow-legged Gull 75. Caspian Tern 76. Lesser Crested Tern 77. Sandwich Tern 78. Little Tern 79. Whiskered Tern 80. Black Tern 81. Laughing Dove 82. Rock Dove (feral) 83. Woodpigeon 84. Collared Dove 85. Eurasian Turtle Dove 86. European Eagle Owk 87. Little Owl 88. Marsh Owl 89. Common Swift 90. Pallid Swift 91. Little Swift 92. European Bee-eater 93. Eurasian Hoopoe Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

16 94. Iberian Green Woodpecker 95. Great Spotted Woodpecker 96. Calandra Lark 97. Short-toed Lark 98. Crested Lark 99. Thekla Lark 100. Sand Martin 101. House Martin 102. Brown-throated Martin 103. Barn Swallow 104. Red-rumped Swallow 105. Tawny Pipit 106. Yellow Wagtail 107. White Wagtail 108. Northern Wren 109. European Robin 110. Common Nightingale 111. Common Redstart 112. Common Stonechat 113. Blue Rock Thrush 114. Blackbird 115. Cetti's Warbler 116. Moustached Warbler 117. Zitting Cisticola 118. Savi's Warbler 119. European Reed Warbler 120. Great Reed Warbler 121. Western Olivaceous Warbler 122. Melodious Warbler 123. Western Bonelli s Warbler 124. Sardinian Warbler 125. Common Whitethroat 126. Garden Warbler 127. Blackcap 128. Iberian Chiffchaff 129. Willow Warbler 130. Spotted Flycatcher 131. Blue Tit 132. African Blue Tit 133. Great Tit 134. Firecrest 135. Southern Grey Shrike 136. Woodchat Shrike 137. Moroccan Magpie 138. Western Jackdaw 139. Common Raven 140. Spotless Starling 141. Common Bulbul Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco

17 142. House Sparrow 143. Spanish Sparrow 144. Chaffinch 145. African Chaffinch 146. European Serin 147. European Greenfinch 148. European Goldfinch 149. Common Linnet 150. Cirl Bunting 151. Corn Bunting 152. House Bunting 153. Monk Parakeet OTHER WILDLIFE 1. Bottlenose Dolphin 2. Long-finned Pilot Whale 3. Sperm Whale 4. European Rabbit 5. Spanish Terrapin 6. Moorish Gecko 7. Mediterranean House Gecko 8. Viperine Snake 9. Perez s Frog 10. Blue Emperor 11. Long Skimmer 12. Spoon-winged Lacewing 13. Red Admiral 14. Painted Lady 15. Clouded Yellow 16. Red-stripped Oil Beetle 17. Two-leaved Gennaria Oriole Birding Strait of Gibraltar & Northern Morocco