PERU'S MAGNETIC NORTH: SPATULETAILS, OWLET LODGE & MORE

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1 Field Guides Tour Report PERU'S MAGNETIC NORTH: SPATULETAILS, OWLET LODGE & MORE Jul 13, 2011 to Jul 24, 2011 John Rowlett What a thrilling trip to a majestic area of northern Peru! We had a quick start on the banks of the lower Rio Mayo just outside of Tarapoto before heading on to Moyobamba for the night. Then an early morning at Morro del Calzada before heading to lunch at Aguas Verdes, a brief stop at Afluente, and finally on to the ECOAN Owlet Lodge, headquarters for the next seven fabulous nights. The last full day at the lodge we spent mesmerized at the marvelous Huembo Spatuletail reserve before recovering from all the excitement by birding up the Rio Chido valley and making a very quick stop at Lago Pomacochas, then returning to Tarapoto and a morning of birding the Tunel on the road to Yurimaguas. En route to Moyobamba our first full day, we made a full-moon-on-the-rise stop at a chasm where Oilbirds hang out and saw (and heard!) 200+ mulling about the opening before heading out to feed--an extraordinary and haunting event! The next morning we were out early for some nightbirding at Morro del Calzada and some early morning birding around the Morro. We had good looks at Spot-tailed Nightjar and, surprisingly, Little Nightjar. After a field breakfast, we saw a pair of cooperative Striolated Puffbirds, the endemic Mishana Tyrannulet, a female Rufous-crested Coquette, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, a pair of Broad-billed Motmots, Gray-capped Flycatchers, Sooty-headed Tyrannulets, a White-browed Purpletuft, Black-faced Tanagers, Turquoise, Green-and-gold, and Paradise tanagers, etc. Before leaving we had a dozen Saddleback Tamarins troop across in front of us. As the day heated we headed for Puente Verdes where we had lunch. There we had a very obliging Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Many-spotted Hummingbird, Lafresnaye's Piculets, Small-billed Elaenia, more tanagers, etc. After lunch, Afluente was suffering from a low pulse when we arrived, so we didn't belabor the birding (promising not to forget that we had some unfinished business there); rather, we proceeded on through a great deal of road construction to the lodge. I chose the night of our first full day at the lodge to try for the Long-whiskered Owlet because it was early on in the tour and all would possess the stamina to do it, because the Owlet Trail was reasonably dry as there had been little rain of late, and because the previous night had held a full moon and I knew we d be able to stay until it rose, if necessary. Two elected to stay back due to trail difficulty, but the rest of us went the 900 mtrs out the trail during the afternoon (we left midafternoon), and we did only a little birding along the way. We heard a Rufous-banded Owl yell about 6:25 p.m., as Roberto and Ebert were arriving (they had stayed back and hustled out the trail after us). Then, just as Roberto was telling us where the owlet would begin singing and what he hoped it would do in response to my playback, the THING began to sing! We were all sworn to viewing it naked-eye first, should it fly in, only later to raise our bins. After about 10 minutes of coaxing and trying three cuts, the owlet flew right over our heads and landed in front of us for fantastic views! We all trudged back up the trail with a delirious spring in each slow step of the climb. What a night! The next few days we spent birding the knife ridges near Garcia gate (with Royal Sunangel, Bar-winged Wood-Wren, and Yellow-scarfed Tanager as primary targets) and the escalera down to Afluente. The sunangel and wood-wren fell into place, although we missed, despite much effort, the tanager. Hooded Tinamous were calling up a storm, but we never caught a glimpse of them on the Mono Trail. Among numerous highlights during our stay: a striking White-rumped Hawk that soared above us for a long time up the Rio Chido, a pair of gaudy White-capped Tanagers up the Chido, fine Red-hooded Tanagers, a very accommodating Lanceolated Monklet, Equatorial Graytail, a great Rusty-breasted Antpitta in the scope from the road, an Ochre-fronted Antpitta for some of us, a demonstrative Chestnut-crowned Gnateater, an immovable, musical Chestnut-breasted Wren (though heard only), a pretty Inca Flycatcher for a full five minutes, Johnson's (Lulu's) Tody- Flycatcher repeatedly, Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrants, some slippery Green-and-black Fruiteaters, great Andean Cocks, a Slatycapped Shrike-Vireo at eye-level (at Puente Verdes), a big-bird mixed flock with shy White-collared Jays and Mountain Caciques, responsive Sharpe's Wrens, Andean and White-eared solitaires, Citrine Warbler, as well as the endemic Yellowcrested and Black-bellied tanagers. The Huembo Place Spatuletail center was dazzling, although we didn t spend more than about three hours there. On our last morning at the Tunel we concluded the tour with Koepcke's Hermit, a flock of Rosefronted Parakeets, White-throated Woodpeckers, and a Golden-collared Toucanet, among others. As gratifying to me as it was for you to see the Long-whiskered Owlet, the Marvelous Spatuletail, and the remarkable specialties of this area, my recurring highlight was meeting new friends and birding with all of you in such a magnetic part Field Guides Birding Tours

2 of the world. I do hope we can repeat the pleasure again somewhere before long. I know I speak for all of you when I thank the local guides Roberto and Santos, the lodge administrators Antonio and Ciro and their staff, our intrepid Manu Expeditions crew, and, of course, Evelyn for acting as (superb) trip photo historian. --John We have more information about this itinerary and future departures on our web page for Peru's Magnetic North. KEYS FOR THIS LIST One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant BIRDS Tinamidae (Tinamous) HOODED TINAMOU (Nothocercus nigrocapillus cadwaladeri) Heard on at least three separate days below the lodge, once down the Mono Trail from no great distance away. Always tough to see. [*] LITTLE TINAMOU (Crypturellus soui) Heard at the Morro. [*] Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl) TORRENT DUCK (Merganetta armata) Good looks at both sexes; a handsome duck! WHITE-CHEEKED PINTAIL (Anas bahamensis) A small group of about six birds huddled on a small island in Lago Pomacochas, Florida. Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows) SPECKLED CHACHALACA (Ortalis guttata) ANDEAN GUAN (Penelope montagnii) Only quick looks. WATTLED GUAN (Aburria aburri) [*] Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns) GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba) SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula) CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata) Cathartidae (New World Vultures) BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus) TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura) GREATER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes melambrotus) Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites) SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus) Striking and graceful. DOUBLE-TOOTHED KITE (Harpagus bidentatus) A quick look at a bird in flight at the Tunel. BLACK-CHESTED BUZZARD-EAGLE (Geranoaetus melanoleucus) Nice views of an adult up the Rio Chido. ROADSIDE HAWK (Buteo magnirostris) WHITE-RUMPED HAWK (Buteo leucorrhous) Splendid views of a soaring bird overhead up the Rio Chido. SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus) One overhead along the lower Rio Mayo. WHITE-THROATED HAWK (Buteo albigula) One bird flew over the lodge mid-day for Evelyn and John to see. BLACK-AND-WHITE HAWK-EAGLE (Spizaetus melanoleucus) A beautiful adult soared over the lodge during a rest break that only Anna, Karen, and John were able to see. Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras) AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius) BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis) Nice views of a bird that was hanging around the lodge early and late in the days. Field Guides Birding Tours

3 Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots) PLUMBEOUS RAIL (Pardirallus sanguinolentus) Spectacular performance by a responsive bird at Lago Pomacochas. Nice photos, Evelyn! COMMON MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus) Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings) ANDEAN LAPWING (Vanellus resplendens) Lydia spotted some 15 birds resting beside Lago Pomacochas. Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves) ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) [I] PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis) Heard along the lower Rio Mayo near Tarapoto. [*] SCALED PIGEON (Patagioenas speciosa) [*] BAND-TAILED PIGEON (Patagioenas fasciata) Almost daily. PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Patagioenas plumbea) RUDDY PIGEON (Patagioenas subvinacea) "Hit the foul pole." EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata) RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti) BLUE GROUND-DOVE (Claravis pretiosa) Our best looks came of a bird at the Morro as it came to drink below us. WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (DECOLOR) (Leptotila verreauxi decolor) Glimpsed several times in the subtropical zone; it was heard singing daily at the lodge. WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (BRASILIENSIS GROUP) (Leptotila verreauxi decipiens) Seen and heard near Tarapoto. GRAY-FRONTED DOVE (Leptotila rufaxilla) [*] WHITE-THROATED QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon frenata) Heard from the lodge and from the Mono Trail. [*] RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE (Geotrygon montana) Heard at the Tunel. [*] Psittacidae (Parrots) ROSE-FRONTED PARAKEET (ROSE-FRONTED) (Pyrrhura roseifrons roseifrons) Delightful studies of some 50 settled birds near the waterfalls and public restrooms before reaching the Tunel. Evelyn got a good shot of one. SCARLET-FRONTED PARAKEET (Aratinga wagleri) A flock of 47 (thank you, Amy) seen west of the Florida pass. WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Aratinga leucophthalma) About 30 seen along the lower Rio Mayo near Tarapoto. COBALT-WINGED PARAKEET (Brotogeris cyanoptera) BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus) RED-BILLED PARROT (Pionus sordidus) Nice views of perched birds at Afluente. SPECKLE-FACED PARROT (Pionus tumultuosus seniloides) A couple of flyovers were all we had. SCALY-NAPED PARROT (Amazona mercenaria) Common in the Abra Patricia area and heard and seen often flying high over the lodge. Cuculidae (Cuckoos) SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana) SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani) Strigidae (Owls) TROPICAL SCREECH-OWL (Megascops choliba) [*] FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum) [*] LONG-WHISKERED OWLET (Xenoglaux loweryi) WOW. Extraordinary views of this legendary little owl for more than a minute at about four meters away! This was one of the highlights of the tour, and I regret that Linda and Dillon were unable to be with us. The seven of us who absorbed that moment now belong to a handful of people who have seen Xenoglaux so well. It ranks as one of the most electrifying experiences of my birding life. Long may such brief moments live! [E] RUFOUS-BANDED OWL (Ciccaba albitarsis) Heard on several occasions; Ray was the only one of us to see it (at the bungalows). Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies) RUFOUS-BELLIED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis rufiventris) One flew over us as we tried for the Cinnamon Screech- Field Guides Birding Tours

4 Owl (to no avail). COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis) Heard near the Morro. [*] SPOT-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus maculicaudus) Seen nicely (and heard) near the Morro. LITTLE NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus parvulus) A real surprise; one seen and perhaps five heard near the Morro. This was the first time I'm aware of this species' having been recorded there. BLACKISH NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus nigrescens) Near the Morro. [*] Steatornithidae (Oilbird) OILBIRD (Steatornis caripensis) Another spectacular show! We saw some 200 of these odd, raucous creatures mulling about the deep chasm where they had been roosting, some outside the dark shaft already, many still on the walls, many treading air before exiting into the full-moon night to hunt for oil palms. Haunting! Apodidae (Swifts) SHORT-TAILED SWIFT (Chaetura brachyura) GRAY-RUMPED SWIFT (Chaetura cinereiventris) WHITE-TIPPED SWIFT (Aeronautes montivagus) Seen near Garcia and near the Tunel. FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata) Seen near the Morro. Trochilidae (Hummingbirds) WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora) A male at the Morro. GREEN HERMIT (Phaethornis guy) Glimpsed at a lek above Puente Verdes. TAWNY-BELLIED HERMIT (Phaethornis syrmatophorus) Heard and seen zipping across the road near Afluente. KOEPCKE'S HERMIT (Phaethornis koepckeae) Great looks at a bird visiting the heliconias at the Tunel, thanks to Karen. Evelyn got a good photo. GRAY-CHINNED HERMIT (Phaethornis griseogularis) The darn little hermits, easily 50 of them, simply would not show in response to playback. GREEN VIOLETEAR (Colibri thalassinus) Seen at the lodge, but seen best at the Huembo Spatuletail Center. SPARKLING VIOLETEAR (Colibri coruscans) Seen well at the Huembo Spat Center. BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis) Two females seen near Tarapoto, one on a nest that, surprisingly, was situated on a utility wire (along the highway to Juan Guerra)! [N] AMETHYST-THROATED SUNANGEL (Heliangelus amethysticollis) Seen along the Mono Trail. ROYAL SUNANGEL (Heliangelus regalis) We were having trouble with this species until we finally got a fine, settled male at one of the knife ridges up from Garcia. Almost an endemic, this species has now been found just across the border in Ecuador. One of the specialties of the area. WIRE-CRESTED THORNTAIL (Discosura popelairii) Females seen on two days by part of the group. RUFOUS-CRESTED COQUETTE (Lophornis delattrei) A female seen at the Morro where we had the puffbirds. ECUADORIAN PIEDTAIL (Phlogophilus hemileucurus) Heard at Afluente, but we never set eyes on it. [*] SPECKLED HUMMINGBIRD (Adelomyia melanogenys) Suggests a small hermit in aspect. LONG-TAILED SYLPH (Aglaiocercus kingi) Many wonderful studies of this flashy hummer. Evelyn got some great shots. EMERALD-BELLIED PUFFLEG (Eriocnemis alinae) Seen many times at the lodge feeders and once in the forest. MARVELOUS SPATULETAIL (Loddigesia mirabilis) WOW. Another highlight of the trip! I suppose it would have been false advertising not to have "produced" this marvelous hummer, but seeing at our leisure adult males so well and so often at Huembo was certainly icing on the cake. We also enjoyed young males, adults that had molted their tails and were regrowing them, and at least two females. Evelyn got some memorable shots, as I'm sure others did with point-andshoots. Is there a more ornate hummer? ECOAN and ABC are to be congratulated for setting up the center at Huembo and for hiring Santos Montenegro, a pioneering Spatuletail conservationist, as its first director. This Endangered species was number 2000 for Amy! That's Loddiges' luck. [E] BRONZY INCA (Coeligena coeligena) Many nice views, especially at Huembo, though a few were regular at the lodge feeders. Evelyn got excellent photos. COLLARED INCA (Coeligena torquata) Another beauty, the males of which are striking! MOUNTAIN VELVETBREAST (Lafresnaya lafresnayi) One female seen up the Rio Chido, thanks to Linda's spotting. It's puzzling why this species hasn't become regular at the lodge feeders. Field Guides Birding Tours

5 CHESTNUT-BREASTED CORONET (Boissonneaua matthewsii) Big, good-looking, and aggressive. The dominant hummer at the lodge feeders. BOOTED RACKET-TAIL (Ocreatus underwoodii) Petite and lovely; this east-slope race has fawn-colored (rather than white) boots. FAWN-BREASTED BRILLIANT (Heliodoxa rubinoides) Some fine studies at the lodge feeders. VIOLET-FRONTED BRILLIANT (Heliodoxa leadbeateri) A magnificent bird! A dazzling male and a female were seen at the Huembo feeders. For a look at that head, check out Evelyn's photos. WHITE-BELLIED WOODSTAR (Chaetocercus mulsant) At least one seen at the lodge feeder near the Fenwick bungalow (photo-documented by our Evelyn); best seen at Huembo with the Little Woodstars and Spats. It is unusual at the lodge insofar as it prefers a drier clime such as that of Huembo. LITTLE WOODSTAR (Chaetocercus bombus) Tiny hummers! Good looks at females, Huembo only; no males to be seen. BLUE-TAILED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon mellisugus) One female. GRAY-BREASTED SABREWING (Campylopterus largipennis) Two seen below the Yurimaguas Tunel. FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania furcata) Best seen at Afluente, where we had males and females. MANY-SPOTTED HUMMINGBIRD (Taphrospilus hypostictus) Nice views of a bird at Aguas Verdes. WHITE-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia chionogaster) Several seen well at the Huembo feeders; one was also seen at the lodge feeders that Evelyn documented with a good photo. This species is usually found in drier areas than east of Abra Patricia. ANDEAN EMERALD (Amazilia franciae cyanocollis) A lovely hummer that surprises an observer with that rich cyan color on the head. Trogonidae (Trogons) GOLDEN-HEADED QUETZAL (Pharomachrus auriceps) [*] CRESTED QUETZAL (Pharomachrus antisianus) [*] BLUE-CROWNED TROGON (Trogon curucui) Great views along the lower Rio Mayo and again at the Morro; good shots, Evelyn! COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris) A male seen nicely at Afluente. MASKED TROGON (Trogon personatus) A real beauty! Momotidae (Motmots) BROAD-BILLED MOTMOT (Electron platyrhynchum) A pair seen at dawn at the Morro. Bucconidae (Puffbirds) STRIOLATED PUFFBIRD (Nystalus striolatus) A lovely, whistling pair seen at the Morro; Evelyn got a fine photo. LANCEOLATED MONKLET (Micromonacha lanceolata) WOW. Another highlight and one of Linda's most wanted. I heard it singing, Amy spotted it, and Linda got us all on it. Great views through the scope and a great photo by Evelyn! This is a real prize anywhere and always a possibility in the Afluente area. WHITE-FACED NUNBIRD (Hapaloptila castanea) Heard at the lodge; also heard at the lodge were White-collared Jays possibly imitating this bird. [*] SWALLOW-WINGED PUFFBIRD (Chelidoptera tenebrosa) Seen at the Morro for breakfast. Galbulidae (Jacamars) BLUISH-FRONTED JACAMAR (Galbula cyanescens) Seen along the lower Rio Mayo out of Tarapoto. Capitonidae (New World Barbets) GILDED BARBET (Capito auratus punctatus) A pair seen at the Morro. VERSICOLORED BARBET (Eubucco versicolor) Painfully heard only several. They just would not respond to playback by showing. [*] Ramphastidae (Toucans) EMERALD TOUCANET (BLUE-THROATED) (Aulacorhynchus prasinus caeruleogularis) Great studies up the Rio Chido; nicely captured in two of Evelyn's photos. CHESTNUT-TIPPED TOUCANET (Aulacorhynchus derbianus) One seen but got away at Afluente. CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis) Good lucks at these at the Morro; heard and seen at Field Guides Birding Tours

6 Afluente. GOLDEN-COLLARED TOUCANET (Selenidera reinwardtii) A fabulous male seen near the Tunel, thanks to Lydia! Evelyn scored again here. WHITE-THROATED TOUCAN (Ramphastos tucanus cuvieri) The yelper heard at the Tunel. [*] CHANNEL-BILLED TOUCAN (Ramphastos vitellinus culminatus) The croaker heard at the Morro. Picidae (Woodpeckers) LAFRESNAYE'S PICULET (Picumnus lafresnayi) Nice views on several occasions, including young being fed. [N] SPECKLE-CHESTED PICULET (Picumnus steindachneri) Darn! Heard only, but no cigar. [*] YELLOW-TUFTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cruentatus) Three seen between Moyobamba and Tarapoto. SMOKY-BROWN WOODPECKER (Picoides fumigatus) Ray had a female in the lodge area; then most of us had a male up the Rio Chido. WHITE-THROATED WOODPECKER (Piculus leucolaemus) A pair at the Tunel; Evelyn got a fine photo of the female. GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus) CRIMSON-MANTLED WOODPECKER (Colaptes rivolii) A striking woodpecker! Seen along the main road in front of the lodge. CRIMSON-BELLIED WOODPECKER (Campephilus haematogaster) WOW. Another superb woodpecker and a prize anywhere. Thanks to Ray for detecting it and for leading us back to where it was still working (at Afluente) "RED on the breast!" I exclaimed in response to Ray's description. Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers) AZARA'S SPINETAIL (Synallaxis azarae) Seen several times, including a juve with an adult at the lodge. [N] DARK-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albigularis) Heard by all, seen by some at Afluente. RUFOUS SPINETAIL (Synallaxis unirufa) Seen best along the Mono Trail. EQUATORIAL GRAYTAIL (Xenerpestes singularis) Seen at Afluente; this was the bird Ray thought looked more like the Northern Waterthrush on Karen's High Island shirt than its illustration in the Peru field guide. Well, it certainly sounded different! PEARLED TREERUNNER (Margarornis squamiger) Nice views; lovely birds. STREAKED TUFTEDCHEEK (Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii) Seen probing the bromeliads at the lodge. MONTANE FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Anabacerthia striaticollis) Wonderful studies at Afluente. BUFF-FRONTED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor rufum) Seen well at Afluente; one bird was carrying nest material. [N] BUFF-THROATED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus ochrolaemus) Heard at the Tunel. [*] STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans) One seen at the Morro. TYRANNINE WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla tyrannina) [*] OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus) Seen very well at the Morro; check out Evelyn's photo. STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex picus) Seen very well along the lower Rio Mayo. OLIVE-BACKED WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus triangularis) Seen at Afluente. MONTANE WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger) Seen along the Mono Trail. Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds) RUFOUS-CAPPED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus ruficapillus) Heard at the Huembo Center. [*] LINED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus tenuepunctatus) Heard several time at Afluente; we never did try for it in earnest. NORTHERN SLATY-ANTSHRIKE (MARANON) (Thamnophilus punctatus huallagae) Seen along the lower Rio Mayo; this may be split in the future. [E] VARIABLE ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus caerulescens) Seen at the lodge. STRIPE-CHESTED ANTWREN (Myrmotherula longicauda) Seen along the lower Rio Mayo. YELLOW-BREASTED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus axillaris) [*] LONG-TAILED ANTBIRD (Drymophila caudata) Seen along the Mono Trail; heard along the Owlet Trail. BLACKISH ANTBIRD (BLACKISH) (Cercomacra nigrescens aequatorialis) Heard at Afluente. [*] WHITE-BACKED FIRE-EYE (Pyriglena leuconota) Heard at Afluente near the monklet spot. [*] Field Guides Birding Tours

7 Formicariidae (Antthrushes) BARRED ANTTHRUSH (Chamaeza mollissima) [*] Grallariidae (Antpittas) RUSTY-TINGED ANTPITTA (Grallaria przewalskii) The Grallaria were tough this trip. [*] CHESTNUT ANTPITTA (Grallaria blakei) [*] OCHRE-BREASTED ANTPITTA (Grallaricula flavirostris) Heard at the gnateater spot. [*] OCHRE-FRONTED ANTPITTA (Grallaricula ochraceifrons) Seen by Ray and John (heard by all there) along the Owlet Trail; also seen by Evelyn, Amy, and John across from the lodge on an optional try. [E] RUSTY-BREASTED ANTPITTA (Grallaricula ferrugineipectus leymebambae) Seen well by all and from the highway! Even in the scope. Extraordinary. Conopophagidae (Gnateaters) CHESTNUT-CROWNED GNATEATER (Conopophaga castaneiceps) Seen by part of the group along the escalera; at least three birds were present. Rhinocryptidae (Tapaculos) TRILLING TAPACULO (Scytalopus parvirostris) Heard along the Mono Trail. [*] RUFOUS-VENTED TAPACULO (Scytalopus femoralis) Heard many times but not seen once! [E*] WHITE-CROWNED TAPACULO (Scytalopus atratus) Heard at Afluente. Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers) WHITE-TAILED TYRANNULET (Mecocerculus poecilocercus) Nice looks up the Rio Chido; Evelyn got a nice photo. YELLOW-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Tyrannulus elatus) [*] YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster) Seen at the Morro. WHITE-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia albiceps) Many at the lodge and surrounding area. SMALL-BILLED ELAENIA (Elaenia parvirostris) One at the Morro. [a] HIGHLAND ELAENIA (Elaenia obscura) Good study of several birds at Huembo. SIERRAN ELAENIA (Elaenia pallatangae) Seen at the lodge; good photo, Evelyn. TORRENT TYRANNULET (Serpophaga cinerea) Seen along the Rio Chido. STREAK-NECKED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes striaticollis) Quite a few seen; sadly, one flew into the dining room window, breaking its (streaked) neck. OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus) One seen at the Morro. SLATY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon superciliaris) Seen at Afluente. INCA FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon taczanowskii) One seen extremely well near Garcia. [E] VARIEGATED BRISTLE-TYRANT (Phylloscartes poecilotis) Two seen in a mixed-species flock at the gnateater spot. MARBLE-FACED BRISTLE-TYRANT (Phylloscartes ophthalmicus) Two also seen at the gnateater spot in a mixedspecies flock. MOTTLE-CHEEKED TYRANNULET (Phylloscartes ventralis) Two seen along the Mono Trail. ECUADORIAN TYRANNULET (Phylloscartes gualaquizae) Fabulous views of a responsive bird at Aguas Verdes (see Evelyn's excellent photo). SOOTY-HEADED TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias griseiceps) Two fine birds responding at the Morro; again, Evelyn nailed them. BLACK-CAPPED TYRANNULET (Phyllomyias nigrocapillus) Two birds in a mixed flock up the Rio Chido got away before everyone could get on them. MISHANA TYRANNULET (Zimmerius villarejoi) Two seen nicely at the Morro. [E] GOLDEN-FACED TYRANNULET (Zimmerius chrysops) Many views! ORNATE FLYCATCHER (Myiotriccus ornatus) Ray had several at Afluente. RUFOUS-HEADED PYGMY-TYRANT (Pseudotriccus ruficeps) [*] SCALE-CRESTED PYGMY-TYRANT (Lophotriccus pileatus) [*] PEARLY-VENTED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer) Seen along the lower Rio Mayo. BLACK-THROATED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus granadensis) Seen at the lodge. Field Guides Birding Tours

8 CINNAMON-BREASTED TODY-TYRANT (Hemitriccus cinnamomeipectus) Grrrrr. Once again, a difficult score; we could but get it to call back. [*] JOHNSON'S TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus luluae) A little stunner! Seen extremely well on several occasions and captured exquisitely by our tour photographer. RUSTY-FRONTED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Poecilotriccus latirostris) Heard along the lower Rio Mayo. [*] YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER (ANDES) (Tolmomyias sulphurescens peruvianus) One seen near the Tunel. YELLOW-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias flaviventris) Seen well along the lower Rio Mayo. CINNAMON FLYCATCHER (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus) Perfectly charming. CLIFF FLYCATCHER (Hirundinea ferruginea) Many nice views, including a bird on the nest at the Tunel; another of Evelyn's scores. [N] OLIVE-CHESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiophobus cryptoxanthus) Seen popping in and out. EULER'S FLYCATCHER (Lathrotriccus euleri) One glimpsed, but heard often, along the road at Afluente. SMOKE-COLORED PEWEE (Contopus fumigatus) [*] BLACK PHOEBE (Sayornis nigricans) Along the Rio Nieva. RUFOUS-TAILED TYRANT (Knipolegus poecilurus) Seen nicely; a pair was nesting across from the llanteria, Afluente. [N] SLATY-BACKED CHAT-TYRANT (MAROON-BELTED) (Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris angustifasciata) What a beauty! Seen at Puente San Antonio and again up the Rio Chido (for Lydia). LONG-TAILED TYRANT (Colonia colonus) Seen near Afluente. DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer) Ray had one at the Morro. PALE-EDGED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus cephalotes) Seen well at the lodge. GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus) BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua) SOCIAL FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes similis) GRAY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes granadensis) Seen at the Morro. DUSKY-CHESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiozetetes luteiventris) Several at the Tunel. LEMON-BROWED FLYCATCHER (Conopias cinchoneti) Seen well above us at the gnateater spot. GOLDEN-CROWNED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus) Seen well at the Tunel; Evelyn got a photo of our bird disclosing a bit of its golden crown. STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus) TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus) Cotingidae (Cotingas) GREEN-AND-BLACK FRUITEATER (Pipreola riefferii) Seen by part of the group on the Mono Trail; Ray had others below the lodge along the track up from the car park. BARRED FRUITEATER (Pipreola arcuata arcuata) Heard up the Rio Chido. [*] SCALED FRUITEATER (Ampelioides tschudii) Frustratingly, heard only; we were close to it at Afluente. [*] ANDEAN COCK-OF-THE-ROCK (Rupicola peruvianus) Some striking males and some eye-catching females. Pipridae (Manakins) FIERY-CAPPED MANAKIN (Machaeropterus pyrocephalus) Its mechanical "tink"s were heard at the Morro. [*] WING-BARRED PIPRITES (Piprites chloris) Heard at Afluente, but it wouldn't show to playback. [*] Tityridae (Tityras and Allies) WHITE-BROWED PURPLETUFT (Iodopleura isabellae) One nice bird sitting up at the Morro, thanks to Evelyn. GREEN-BACKED BECARD (YELLOW-CHEEKED) (Pachyramphus viridis xanthogenys) Seen nesting at the Tunel. [N] BARRED BECARD (Pachyramphus versicolor) Several nice studies of both sexes. WHITE-WINGED BECARD (Pachyramphus polychopterus) One male at the Morro. Vireonidae (Vireos) BROWN-CAPPED VIREO (Vireo leucophrys) Seen at the lodge and on other occasions. Field Guides Birding Tours

9 RED-EYED VIREO (Vireo olivaceus) Along the lower Rio Mayo. OLIVACEOUS GREENLET (Hylophilus olivaceus) [*] SLATY-CAPPED SHRIKE-VIREO (Vireolanius leucotis) Seen beautifully at Puente Verdes. RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) One seen; mostly heard. Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies) WHITE-COLLARED JAY (Cyanolyca viridicyanus) What a lovely bird; one of the shy jays. Evelyn got a good photo! GREEN JAY (INCA) (Cyanocorax yncas yncas) Watch for this jay to be split from Green Jay. VIOLACEOUS JAY (Cyanocorax violaceus) Two glimpsed and heard scolding along the lower Rio Mayo. Hirundinidae (Swallows) BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca) Nesting under the eves at the lodge. [N] WHITE-BANDED SWALLOW (Atticora fasciata) A pair perched for us along the lower Rio Mayo; check out Evelyn's photo. SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis) GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea) BROWN-CHESTED MARTIN (Progne tapera) Near the Morro. Troglodytidae (Wrens) THRUSH-LIKE WREN (Campylorhynchus turdinus) One at the Morro. GRAY-MANTLED WREN (Odontorchilus branickii) Seen (and photographed) splendidly at Afluente. SHARPE'S WREN (Cinnycerthia olivascens) A pair of birds at the Abra. CORAYA WREN (Pheugopedius coraya) Seen along the lower Rio Mayo. SPECKLE-BREASTED WREN (MARANON) (Pheugopedius sclateri sclateri) Seen in the vine tangles above the hummingbird feeders at the Huembo Reserve. HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon) Widespread. Fledglings at the lodge. [N] MOUNTAIN WREN (Troglodytes solstitialis) At the lodge, where they were nesting. [N] BAR-WINGED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucoptera) WOW. Another great specialty seen very well at Garcia. GRAY-BREASTED WOOD-WREN (Henicorhina leucophrys) Seen but mostly heard. SCALY-BREASTED WREN (SOUTHERN) (Microcerculus marginatus marginatus) Heard at the Morro and the Tunel. [*] CHESTNUT-BREASTED WREN (Cyphorhinus thoracicus thoracicus) Heard near Alto Nieva and at the gnateater spot. [*] Cinclidae (Dippers) WHITE-CAPPED DIPPER (Cinclus leucocephalus) Splendid! Donacobiidae (Donacobius) BLACK-CAPPED DONACOBIUS (Donacobius atricapilla) What antics, what syncopation, what a dance! Observed near Aguas Verdes. Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies) ANDEAN SOLITAIRE (Myadestes ralloides) Nice to see; glorious to hear. SPOTTED NIGHTINGALE-THRUSH (Catharus dryas) [*] WHITE-EARED SOLITAIRE (Entomodestes leucotis) A responsive bird circled us until most of us saw it along the Mono Trail. The single-noted song of this northern population is distinct from that more slurred song of the southern populations. PALE-BREASTED THRUSH (Turdus leucomelas) Seen near Tarapoto. GREAT THRUSH (Turdus fuscater gigantodes) GLOSSY-BLACK THRUSH (Turdus serranus) One female along Hwy N5. Parulidae (New World Warblers) TROPICAL PARULA (Parula pitiayumi) SLATE-THROATED REDSTART (Myioborus miniatus) Field Guides Birding Tours

10 SPECTACLED REDSTART (Myioborus melanocephalus) The highland replacement of the preceding species with a markedly different song. CITRINE WARBLER (Basileuterus luteoviridis) Great views of a responsive bird at the Abra. RUSSET-CROWNED WARBLER (Basileuterus coronatus inaequalis) A large warbler that duets! THREE-STRIPED WARBLER (Basileuterus tristriatus tristriatus) Ray had one. Coerebidae (Bananaquit) BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola) Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies) BLACK-FACED TANAGER (Schistochlamys melanopis) Seen at the Morro; Evelyn nailed it. MAGPIE TANAGER (Cissopis leverianus) A pleasant surprise every time. WHITE-CAPPED TANAGER (Sericossypha albocristata) WOW. Another great performance by a pair of birds up the Rio Chido. The unusual resistance of calling birds to my playback makes me suspect they were breeding; and indeed, the male of the two we saw (this species is seldom encountered as a mere pair) was carrying food (see Evelyn's great shots). It has been suggested that this aberrant tanager belongs with the jays or the blackbirds rather than the tanagers, and we could see why. OLEAGINOUS HEMISPINGUS (Hemispingus frontalis) Seen in two places, including up the Chido, but not properly. GRAY-HOODED BUSH TANAGER (Cnemoscopus rubrirostris) Nice views at Puente San Antonio. CAPPED CONEBILL (Conirostrum albifrons) A pair up the Rio Chido in a mixed flock. Emberizidae (Buntings, Sparrows and Allies) COMMON BUSH-TANAGER (Chlorospingus ophthalmicus) Common indeed at the lodge, where it is vocal each dawn and dusk. YELLOW-THROATED BUSH-TANAGER (Chlorospingus flavigularis) Seen at Aguas Verdes. ASHY-THROATED BUSH-TANAGER (Chlorospingus canigularis) Seen above Afluente. Thraupidae (Tanagers and Allies) YELLOW-CRESTED TANAGER (Tachyphonus rufiventer) Seen by some at our lunch stop, Puente Verdes, where we watched birds come and go from the fruiting tree. [E] BLACK-BELLIED TANAGER (Ramphocelus melanogaster) Some seen in the same tree as above, others seen closer to Aguas Verdes where we had the Donacobius. [E] SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo) Seen at the Tunel. BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus) PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum) BLUE-CAPPED TANAGER (Thraupis cyanocephala) Seen nicely at and near the lodge/abra. VERMILION TANAGER (Calochaetes coccineus) Two seen by those who walked ahead of the bus when we were stalled by construction. Surprising we didn't see more. BLUE-WINGED MOUNTAIN-TANAGER (Anisognathus somptuosus) Seen a little above Afluente. GRASS-GREEN TANAGER (Chlorornis riefferii) Seen nicely on several occasions; what a great bird! YELLOW-THROATED TANAGER (Iridosornis analis) Another sensational tanager! Sadly we missed its congener this trip. FAWN-BREASTED TANAGER (Pipraeidea melanonota) One female. ORANGE-EARED TANAGER (Chlorochrysa calliparaea bourcieri) One at Afluente that got away before everyone could get on it. TURQUOISE TANAGER (Tangara mexicana) In the early morning light at the Morro. PARADISE TANAGER (Tangara chilensis) Some good views of this beauty. GREEN-AND-GOLD TANAGER (Tangara schrankii) Same with this species. GOLDEN TANAGER (Tangara arthus pulchra) And with this nugget. SAFFRON-CROWNED TANAGER (Tangara xanthocephala venusta) All the Tangaras are something. FLAME-FACED TANAGER (Tangara parzudakii) And this rather large one is really something; nice photo, Evelyn. YELLOW-BELLIED TANAGER (Tangara xanthogastra) Seen at Afluente. BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola) One seen at the Tunel. Field Guides Birding Tours

11 METALLIC-GREEN TANAGER (Tangara labradorides) Some excellent studies of this handsome bird on the west side of the Abra. BLUE-NECKED TANAGER (Tangara cyanicollis caeruleocephala) Seen at Aguas Verdes; this one has an entirely blue hood! MASKED TANAGER (Tangara nigrocincta) Great views at the Tunel. BERYL-SPANGLED TANAGER (Tangara nigroviridis) Nice, repeated views of this one. BLUE-AND-BLACK TANAGER (Tangara vassorii branickii) The highest ranging (in elevation) of all the Tangaras. SILVERY TANAGER (Tangara viridicollis) Some fine looks at both sexes at and around the Abra. BLACK-FACED DACNIS (Dacnis lineata) Quite a few at the Morro. BLUE DACNIS (Dacnis cayana) Ditto. GREEN HONEYCREEPER (Chlorophanes spiza) At the Morro and at the Tunel. PURPLE HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes caeruleus) Seen well at the Morro; Evelyn got a nice photo of a female. SWALLOW TANAGER (Tersina viridis) Showing off at the Morro in early-morning light. GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens) BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR (Saltator maximus) SLATE-COLORED GROSBEAK (Saltator grossus) [*] Emberizidae (Buntings, Sparrows and Allies) CHESTNUT-BELLIED SEEDEATER (Sporophila castaneiventris) Seen at the Tarapoto airport. WHITE-SIDED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa albilatera) Common at the lodge. BLUISH FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa caerulescens) Only one bird. MASKED FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa cyanea) Fairly common around Abra Patricia. SAFFRON FINCH (Sicalis flaveola) Seen at the Tarapoto airport. GRASSLAND YELLOW-FINCH (Sicalis luteola) Seen at Lago Pomacochas, thanks to Lydia. YELLOW-BREASTED BRUSH-FINCH (Atlapetes latinuchus) Seen at the lodge. YELLOW-BROWED SPARROW (Ammodramus aurifrons) Seen at lower elevations; this was the one whose song suggested a Grasshopper Sparrow to some. RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis) Almost daily. Cardinalidae (Cardinals and Allies) HEPATIC TANAGER (HIGHLAND) (Piranga flava lutea) A pair seen at the Tunel, thanks to Anna's "red bird"; see Evelyn's photos. RED-HOODED TANAGER (Piranga rubriceps) A tremendous bird! Great to see it on this tour. CARMIOL'S TANAGER (YELLOW-LORED) (Chlorothraupis carmioli frenata) Seen at the Tunel. Icteridae (Troupials and Allies) PERUVIAN MEADOWLARK (Sturnella bellicosa) Nice views (finally up close) of this Sturnella at Lago Pomacochas. ORANGE-BACKED TROUPIAL (Icterus croconotus croconotus) A couple of brilliant birds between Moyobamba and Tarapoto. MOUNTAIN CACIQUE (GOLDEN-SHOULDERED) (Cacicus chrysonotus peruvianus) Fine looks at these big caciques flocking with some White-collared Jays along the river below Puente San Antonio. SCARLET-RUMPED CACIQUE (SUBTROPICAL) (Cacicus uropygialis uropygialis) Hard to see their scarlet rumps until they fly; and even then it can be tough. YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus cela) The lowland cacique. [N] RUSSET-BACKED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius angustifrons) Heard more often than seen. Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies) PURPLE-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chlorotica) Near Tarapoto and the Tunel. THICK-BILLED EUPHONIA (Euphonia laniirostris) Same for this euphonia. BRONZE-GREEN EUPHONIA (Euphonia mesochrysa) Seen in the Aguas Verdes-Afluente area. ORANGE-BELLIED EUPHONIA (Euphonia xanthogaster) One male at Afluente; one up the Rio Chido. BLUE-NAPED CHLOROPHONIA (Chlorophonia cyanea) Seen at Afluente in the mistletoe. Field Guides Birding Tours

12 HOODED SISKIN (Spinus magellanicus) Passeridae (Old World Sparrows) HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus) [I] MAMMALS SADDLEBACK TAMARIN (Saguinus fuscicollis) A troop of about 12 at the Morro. This was our only monkey of the trip. ADDITIONAL COMMENTS Totals for the tour: 325 bird taxa and 1 mammal taxa Field Guides Birding Tours

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