ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO USA UTAH & WYOMING Yellowstone & Grand Teton in the Fall Photographic Tour September 2013

Transcription

1 ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO USA UTAH & WYOMING Yellowstone & Grand Teton in the Fall Photographic Tour September 2013 Leaders: Richard Coomber and Paul Rogers

2 ORNITHOLIDAYS' TOUR TO USA UTAH & WYOMING Yellowstone & Grand Teton in the Fall Photographic Tour September 2013 A Personal Diary Thursday, 12 September Early on a damp and misty September morning the Ornitholidays' party to Utah and Wyoming met at London's Heathrow Airport for the American Airlines flight to Chicago, on the first leg of our flight to Salt Lake City, Utah. Much of the smooth Atlantic crossing was above the clouds which cleared just before we reached the east coast of Greenland, but closed in again soon after. We arrived more or less on time at Chicago, where immigration took an age. However once clear of the formalities things went relatively smoothly and our onward connection to Salt Lake City departed on time. That flight took just under three hours, much of which was over the flat farmland of the Midwest. Storm clouds hid the mountains as we passed over Colorado and into Utah, where water levels on the Great Salt Lake looked rather low. Once we were reunited with our luggage, Paul Rogers, my co-leader, and I collected the two hired minibuses and then we headed north on a fine evening to our hotel on the northern outskirts of Ogden. Unusually, and because our flight schedule was an early one, we arrived at the hotel in daylight, so some saw American Coot, California Gull, Mourning and Eurasian Collared Doves, Barn Swallows and European Starlings on the way. After checking-in and settling into our rooms we enjoyed an excellent meal in an adjacent Mexican restaurant. Friday, 13 September Heavy clouds, low on the Wasatch Mountains, with heavy rain accompanied by thunder around lunch time, brighter in afternoon. 71 F Following breakfast at the hotel, and having collected lunch from Subways, we headed south on I-15 before turning off to Antelope Island. Rain threatened, but we only had a few spots in the morning as we crossed the causeway to the island. The water levels were extremely low, so the early part of the crossing was devoid of birds apart from a large number of Barn and Tree Swallows, presumably grounded by the inclement weather. As we approached mud and then water, gulls - California, Franklin's and Ring-billed - were seen and more distantly were four Sandhill Cranes and hunting Northern Harriers. We were probably over half way across before we saw American Avocets close enough to count them properly. Count is the wrong word, for to count them physically as opposed to counting them on the list was impossible for there were tens of thousands. A total surprise was an American Badger three-quarters of the way along the causeway apparently digging a burrow on the side of the road. Unfortunately it was interrupted by a passing 4x4 and disappeared over the side. That was to our advantage as it turned out, for we were able to watch it digging another hole into the bank, but after three or four photo-calls it had dug deep enough and removed sufficient sand to disappear from view. A American Badger (RC) Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 1

3 Coyote was seen nearby, perhaps hunting Deer Mice that were seen scurrying amongst the sagebrush bushes from time to time. Further on, we reached the bridge area where vast numbers, certainly tens of thousands, of Eared Grebes dotted the surface of the lake as far as the eye could see. There were a few Red-necked Phalaropes scattered amongst them, but it was along at the nearby marina that we had our closest views and best photo opportunities. Next up was a couple of Sage Thrashers that showed well before we headed south towards the Garr Ranch, seeing Bison and Pronghorn Antelopes along the way. By the time we arrived it was raining, no pouring, so we had to eat our lunch in the minibuses. However, when the rain stopped we started birding, beginning amongst the trees near the car park where there were Western Wood Pewee, Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Yellow-rumped and Wilson s Warblers as well as a single Warbling Vireo and a Yellow Warbler. The best bird, however, was found by Tat, a Black-and- White Warbler, an Eastern species and something of a vagrant in Utah. He also photographed Say s Phoebe near the barns. In the woods below the main buildings we enjoyed good views of two immature Great Horned Owls before we explored further afield where we met Steve and Cindy Sommerville, local birders who had seen the Black-and-White earlier during the morning. The Sommervilles do weekly surveys on Antelope Island and they showed us Cordilleran, Dusky and Gray Flycatchers around the Russian Olive trees and along a fence line. We also saw Western Tanager, Spotted Towhee, Townsend s and MacGillivray's Warblers and a Calliope Hummingbird. There were also several sparrows, but White-crowned and Song Sparrows didn t light up the eyes quite like the hummingbird which was nectaring on sunflowers. Surprisingly Monarch was the only butterfly noted today, with several seen heading southwards. Calliope Hummingbird (TT) Later in the afternoon we returned towards the island s Visitor Centre seeing Golden Eagle and getting good views of Bison and Pronghorns on the way. Two more goodies were seen near the centre - Rock Wren and Chukar, the latter being an introduction. Also in the area was a very confiding Desert Cottontail. As soon as we began to retrace our route across the causeway we started to see phalaropes, thousands upon thousands scattered over the smooth surface of the lake, probably the swirling masses of shorebirds over the water we had seen earlier in the day. Paul s party refound the Coyote and saw a Peregrine. We returned to the hotel and later had dinner again at the Mexican restaurant. Saturday, 14 September Sunny periods with heavy storm clouds around giving rise to brief, but torrential, showers at times. 70 F, but cooler in Grand Teton N.P. After breakfast we had the luggage loaded and were on our way north from Ogden just before 8 a.m., and after buying lunch at Subways, and stopping for a box of peaches at Willard, we turned away from the Salt Lake area, climbing up towards Logan. After a few miles we stopped to visit Mantua Pond, around which many new homes have been built in recent years. The pond is used as a recreation lake, but around the edge were distant American Coot, Black-necked and at least one Pied-billed Grebe. The number of Western Grebes probably exceeded 200 and there was at least one pair engaged in their courtship display, but surprisingly there appeared to be no Clark's Grebes. As we returned to the minibuses a Sharp-shinned Hawk caused some anxiety amongst the local Eurasian Starling population. Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 2

4 Nearing the university town of Logan, which lies at the foot of Logan Canyon, we encountered the tour's first Swainson's Hawks, most likely grounded migrants on their way to the pampas of Argentina for the winter. A detour through the leafy suburban back streets arose because of a parade in the town centre. Eventually we reached Logan Canyon, where conifers grow on the upper slopes of the craggy canyon, whilst at lower elevations Bigtooth Maples were showing just a hint of red suggesting that the autumn colours were running late this year. Some distant Clark's Nutcrackers were seen flying along the rim and there were Barn and Tree Swallows migrating through the canyon. Having passed over Bear Summit at 7,800 feet above sea-level, we stopped at the overlook just beyond for the spectacular views out over the almost Mediterranean blue waters of Bear Lake and north into Idaho. There were even some butterflies - Clouded Sulphur, a rather worn Callippe Fritillary and a female Purplish Copper. The road wound down to the lake, where after a few miles we crossed into Idaho, passing houses erected by the early Mormon settlers some 140 or more years ago. Sadly many of the old houses, barns and sheds have fallen into disrepair. Lush pastures for cattle and growing winter fodder provided food for a few Sandhill Cranes. Yellow-headed Blackbirds and an Osprey were also seen before we reached Paris, where we stopped in a small park for our picnic. As we drove in Paul had spotted a Golden Eagle heading south as it was mobbed by a Red-tailed Hawk. In the trees alongside the park were Northern Flickers, Red-naped Sapsucker, Yellow-rumped Warbler and several American Robins, perhaps the vanguard of birds being pushed south by stormy and colder weather to the north. After lunch we continued to Montpelier, beyond which the road climbed again through sage covered hills and beside streams where Beaver activity had created willow thickets beside the water much loved by Moose, where they haven't been Red-naped Sapsucker (TT) hunted out. Having crossed into Wyoming and topped the hills at over 7,000 feet we dropped down into the fertile Star Valley, not a very healthy place for skunks judging by the road kills. Not a great place if you were a male Elk either as across the street in Afton was the 'Largest Elk Horn Arch in the World' made from interwoven antlers from the bulls! Osprey (RC) At the northern end of the Star Valley is a reservoir, sadly much reduced by falling water levels. Still a good place for Ospreys with two occupied nests on poles close to the road. The youngster on the nest beside a viewing area was calling for food, but there was no sign of its parents this afternoon. Under leaden skies we drove up the valley of the Snake River to the bustling tourist trap of Jackson, which lies at the southern end of Jackson Hole, as the early settlers called the broad valley beneath the jagged peaks of the Teton Mountains. Unfortunately clouds obscured the jagged peaks, so we pressed on to the park entrance near Moran Junction and on to Colter Bay, our base for the next five nights. After checking-in we settled into our cosy log cabins. Dinner was in the restaurant this evening. Sunday, 15 September Mainly overcast with rain at times during the morning, becoming brighter for a while around mid-day and early afternoon before a period of prolonged rain set in for the remainder of the afternoon. Brighter once again in early evening. 60 F Under dark skies we left Colter Bay after a satisfying breakfast, stopping first at the Willow Flats overlook, where a rainbow brightened the view across the tawny flats to the Tetons still shrouded in clouds beyond. It Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 3

5 provided our first real photo opportunity of the morning, but there were more to come, especially when we reached the perfectly still waters of Oxbow Bend and the reflections of mountains and forest, perhaps only broken by the occasional fish taking a fly or a small flotilla of American Wigeon. As rain threatened we continued towards Two Oceans Lake only to discover that the national park had closed the road as they had not the funds for its maintenance. Sadly this also applied to the track down to Schwabacher Landing and no doubt other 'interesting' routes. There were a few birds in the area nearby including Chipping and White-crowned Sparrows, Mountain Chickadee, American Robin and Dark-eyed Junco and the sight and sound of bugling Sandhill Cranes flying around the area was wonderful. By the time we reached Jackson Lake Dam it was almost lunch time, so we checked the river below the dam, where some 30 Common Mergansers (our Goosanders) were loafing around on the river bank or fishing the swift flowing waters. A Spotted Sandpiper that flew across the river was the tour's first. By then the weather had improved sufficiently for us to enjoy our picnic on tables and benches nearby. A Black-billed Magpie came for scraps wearing a metal ring and from his photos Paul was able to read most of the number. From there it was a relatively short drive to Cattleman's Bridge, except that there is no longer a bridge there. There were however a good number of very active dragonflies and a female Barrow's Goldeneye swimming and diving on a backwater. We were distracted by an adult Bald Eagle perched up in a tree, that is until Ellen spotted a rather distant Grizzly Bear working its way across the distant sagebrush until it disappeared from view. We rushed to see it again just beyond Oxbow Bend, where to our delight it crossed the road and into the trees beyond. Great excitement, even if there were other people and cars milling around. Grizzly Bear (BH) Looking for birds across Jackson Lake from the dam was our next stop and there in the distance the scopes picked up a party of six Trumpeter Swans resting on the mud exposed by the low water levels. There were hundreds of American Coot and a variety of ducks amongst which Paul found a lone Wilson's Phalarope, which happened to be the only one of the tour. Next we headed for Signal Mountain in the hope of finding either Dusky or Ruffed Grouse, but there were none today and nor was the mountain vista to be seen as the rain settled in for the afternoon, although we did see Mule Deer well on the drive. With that we returned to the cabins and later had an excellent dinner. Monday, 16 September Fine and sunny with increasing cloud and showers during afternoon. 60 F It was a cool crisp morning when we set off after breakfast, heading south down the inside road beneath the mountains. A band of cloud and the autumn colours were reason enough to stop once more at Willow Flats, for the contrast from yesterday was striking, going from almost monochrome to full colour! Near the Signal Mountain turn-off, a female Mule Deer grazed by the roadside with her youngster, and only a matter of yards further on a splendid bull Elk accompanied a cow and her calf. He was truly magnificent and initially all three were on the verge, but were spooked into the surrounding forest by a particularly noisy RV that thundered by. Continuing south the only other mammal we were to see was Pronghorn, but all were rather distant. However, on a sparkling morning such this it was the mountain scenery that stole the show. One unexpected sighting was a pair of Sandhill Cranes that walked away in amongst the trees from the sage in which they were feeding until we drew up. Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 4

6 Today we sourced lunch from the store in Moose, and while we waited for the last rolls to be made, some of the party enjoyed an ice cream in the warm sunshine, before we left for the photogenic old buildings of Mormon Row. With the mighty Tetons as a backdrop they made splendid subjects, as did the loose flock of Mountain Bluebirds amongst the buildings and nearby Cottonwood trees. Mountain Bluebird (TT) As the clock and tummies indicated lunchtime we made the last images along the southern part of Mormon Row before heading for the campground at Gros Ventre and our picnic. There were few birds there or along the road leading back to the main highway. To try and pull something out of the bag we decided to check the Moose-Wilson Road leading south from Moose. Stopping at the first turnout we saw a couple of Yellow-rumped Warblers and learned of a female Black Bear on the side of the road a little further on and even knowing that there was sure to be a bear-jam we headed off without hesitation. Cars and people were all over the place but the high level of anticipation was justified when Paul, who was in the lead, came over the radio to say that she was right beside his bus! Unfortunately Black Bear (RC) (or was it fortunately) the rangers who were marshalling the situation ushered him on. My bus was following, so we got to see her as well, but perhaps not quite so clearly. During the next half hour, having dropped the party off to give them a better chance of seeing her, we drove up and down three of four times to keep an eye on the situation for there was absolutely nowhere to park. She crossed the road a couple of times, once right in front of my bus, and even went down to the river to drink or cool off! Eventually, when we felt the views couldn't be bettered we carried on further along the road to see a Beaver lodge that has increased in size over recent years. Having extracted ourselves from the bear scene we headed northwards along the inside road once more. Some saw a Red Fox briefly and further on another large bull Elk was in charge of a herd of some 25 females and calves. Perhaps not as close as we would have liked, but close enough to justify stopping for ten minutes or more. As the last jaunt of the day we tried once more for grouse on Signal Mountain, but again without success. There were, however, great views of several Mule Deer and some amazing lighting as another storm swept across the Tetons - another dose of camera fodder! On our way back to the lodge a yearling Black Bear scurried across the road in front of us, whilst Paul was still up on the mountain road. Further on a Bald Eagle was robbing an Osprey over the Snake River downstream from the dam. That was it - another great day! Dinner was in the restaurant again this evening and as we returned to our cabins a near full moon shone from an almost cloudless sky. Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 5

7 Tuesday, 17 September Thunder, with hail and heavy rain during the night, but fine until late morning, when showers, later becoming heavy with more hail and thunder. Cooler. 55 F Moose (JG) We had barely travelled more than two or three miles south of Colter Bay this morning when we had the day's first excitement - a sub-adult male Moose trotting amongst the pines and across the sage close to the road. It became clear that he wanted to cross the road and head towards Jackson Lake, so we were ideally positioned. Since Wolves were re-introduced into the Yellowstone and Grand Teton ecosystem both Elk and Moose have become increasingly more difficult to see out in the open. Next we headed for Signal Mountain we had excellent views of Townsend's Solitaire, a species that can be elusive at times. A fly-over Sharp-shinned Hawk was also logged. As we continued southwards we ran into rain as the clouds thickened, so the promise of stops at the post office and at the visitor centre was fulfilled. At the centre a roaming flock of Brewer's Blackbirds presented a challenge for Tat and his camera and the flock of 27 Clark's Nutcrackers that dropped into trees nearer the Snake River were never seen again unfortunately. By lunchtime the rain had eased and the weather brightened, so we had lunch at Dornan's, where there were also a few more blackbirds and American Crows, before we returned north for a walk through the pines alongside String Lake. There were good views of both Least Chipmunk and American Red Squirrel, but the area seem devoid of the anticipated woodland birds, such as Red-breasted Nuthatch, Mountain Chickadee and Dark-eyed Junco. They must have known what the weather was about to do! We had a pleasant walk along to the bridge and rapids, before turning back as the skies turned blacker and blacker. Time to hurry back to the buses. Some turned back early and made it, but those who had gone as far as the bridge were not so lucky. First there was rain, then came the thunder and then we were bombarded with hail stones about 1.5 centimetres across! Spectacular and painful too! Reluctantly we sheltered amongst the trees, but the thunder and lightning was passing eastwards and to the south of us, so we were alright. The hail and rain only lasted a few minutes, but the carpet of white that remained for a while afterwards provided more photo opportunities. Back at the minibuses we exchanged experiences as we ate some of the last peaches that we brought with us from Utah - now very juicy and delicious. As we were leaving two Gray Jays put in an appearance and on the edge of the car park grazed four Mule Deer, two females and twin fawns, who were completely unafraid of us, so in spite of the dull lighting there were images to be made. Mule Deer (RC) Heading north again we stopped at Jackson Lake Dam, where almost 100 Common Mergansers, mostly drakes in eclipse, had gathered. Two Bald Eagles flew over and along the stony riverbank was a Killdeer and two Spotted Sandpipers. A brief stop further on at Oxbow Bend produced nothing new in the way of wildlife, but the autumnal colours of foliage were getting richer. Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 6

8 We returned to our cabins and when we went to dinner we found the dining room much busier than usual, with some items on the menu having run out! We guessed that the inclement weather had forced campers in from the cold and wet. Wednesday, 18 September Overnight snow on mountains, sunny periods during the day, few showers. 50 F It was decidedly colder this morning and as clouds lifted on the mountains we could see that what had been rain with us had fallen as snow at higher elevations, not good news for the four fledgling Barn Swallows huddled together on a beam outside the dining room. As we were about to leave the general store Jane spotted a Moose walking through the trees across from the car park, but with other people about it disappeared amongst the trees and was not seen again. Grand Tetons (RC) Eagle was escorting a recently fledged juvenile. On the drive down to Moose we made a number of stops at overlooks to view the mountains, noting several small flocks of migrating American Robins. A stop at Oxbow Bend produced the usual ducks, an immature Great Blue Heron and a pair of adult Bald Eagles. Soon after Moran Junction there were good views of a Swainson's Hawk on the fencing where we should have been looking at Bison in the meadow beyond, but the herd seems to have vanished. One can't lose Bison that easily! From Snake River Overlook Elk were seen amongst the sage beyond the river, along whose steep side banks an adult Bald As more snow showers drifted across the mountains we appreciated coffee and hot chocolate at Moose, when we stopped for sandwiches and rolls before heading across the Snake River to explore a completely new habitat. Greater Sage Grouse disperse from their core areas into the surrounding sagebrush after the breeding season, but finding them is on a par with looking for a Long-eared Owl (TT) needle in a haystack. The first needle today, after probably 30 minutes or more searching, turned out to be a very dark Long-eared Owl! We had stunning views of the bird sheltering from the wind in the lee of a sage bush, thanks to Paul's well managed approach - all together and five yards at a time, click, click and then forwards another five yards, until we were merely some 20 yards away! Finally it flew 100 yards or more away and elated we left it in peace. During the walk Jane had found some piles of old Sage Grouse droppings, so we wished the party "Good Luck" as we walked back to fetch the buses. We had seen Horned Larks earlier as we had walked through the sage, but precious few sparrows. It was great to learn that while we were fetching the minibuses no less than seven Greater Sage Grouse flew up in front of the party - mission accomplished and some! Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 7

9 Too chilly today to picnic outside so we enjoyed the view of the mountains from Menor's Ferry, where a pair of Bald Eagles passed over and during our exploration of the historic buildings Mountain Chickadee was seen and White-breasted Nuthatch was added to the list. Being so close to the Moose- Wilson Road it seemed appropriate to try and see the Black Bear again. She was there and as we were able to park the minibuses we had the most amazing experience all thanks to a most considerate ranger, who obviously knew the bear and her behaviour well. We were all on the front line of the grid and chatting to him when we discovered that he had served with USAF at Brize Norton, Oxfordshire in 1960's. Never were we in any danger, but at the same time pretty close as she foraged voraciously for berries. Black Bear (JG) The river in the National Elk Refuge just north of Jackson was our next stop. It s a great place for wildfowl and sometimes holds Trumpeter Swans, but today they were further upstream. Instead we enjoyed great views of Lesser Scaup, Ring-necked Duck and a Blue-winged Teal as well as more familiar species such as Gadwall. A lone Canada Goose was of interest, for with its pale lower neck and breast, it was of one of the races classed as 'Lesser' Canada Goose. Across the water and amongst the reeds were Yellow-headed Blackbirds and over the vast grass and rushy area upstream quartered Northern Harriers. It was soon time to head north again, but today the mountains were more or less clear of clouds, so we stopped for photos at the Grand Teton National Park entry sign. There were some heavy clouds about, especially way north of us, which left us wondering what sort of weather they were having up in Yellowstone! As we neared Colter Bay we met southbound traffic with snow all over the front of the vehicles! As usual dinner was at Colter Bay s restaurant for the last time. Thursday, 19 September Generally sunny, warmer and no showers. Maximum 69 F Before breakfast Jill and Margaret added Brown Creeper to the list, when they found one as they walked to breakfast. Today was the transfer to Yellowstone, so we made a prompt start after buying lunch at the Colter Bay store. It wasn't such a good start for the Ruffed Grouse that was killed by a car shortly before we passed by on our way north. The low water levels at the north end of Jackson Lake exposed acres of mud, where we normally expect to be seeing ducks and geese. They were there, but in reduced numbers along with a few distant American White Pelicans and unidentified gulls. Jardine spotted two black and white geese flying by, which to our surprise were Black Brant, the race of Brent Goose that should have been wintering along the Pacific coast. No doubt a goodie for this part of the world. Once in Yellowstone National Park we pressed on through mile after mile of conifers. A big storm yesterday had resulted in the snow closing the roads until 07:30 this morning, but thankfully the warmth of the sun had brought about a rapid thaw. The Beartooth Highway, which at over 11,000 feet, is the highest tarmac road in North America was closed and likely to remain so until next spring, so winter is coming early this year in the Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 8

10 high country. We made a photo stop overlooking the Lewis River Canyon and a longer one to enjoy an American Pika on a scree slope near Lewis Falls. We had great views of the little fellow and from the smiles no doubt the photographers were happy. American Pika (RC) West Thumb Geyser Basin was the next stop, where there was plenty of steam rising from the thermal features thanks to the cold(ish) air. Down on the lake was a flock of some 25 Barrow's Goldeneye and amongst the scattered trees we encountered Mountain Bluebirds, Yellow-rumped Warblers, Chipping and White-crowned Sparrows and Dark-eyed Juncos. Carrying on we reached Gull Point Drive, where the Gray Jays and a Clark's Nutcracker that came around the picnic tables did not disappoint! Three California Gulls and a Common Raven also arrived, but were not so confiding. Nearby, on a small lake, we found our first Buffleheads along with the commoner wildfowl present. Harlequin Ducks (RC) On leaving the Yellowstone Lake area we followed the Yellowstone River north towards the Hayden Valley, but we stopped at Le Hardy Rapids before we reached the more open valley 'proper'. On rocks just below the board walk was a very obliging American Dipper, one of three or four we were to see there, whilst out in the turbulent waters of the rapids a female Common Merganser fished with her four youngsters. Harlequin Duck didn't let us down either for resting on the rocks at the top of the rapids was a female and her two offspring. Alas no drakes around at this time of the year for they all head for the Pacific coast to moult with the rest of the lads. So it was up to the Hayden Valley, one of Yellowstone's foremost wildlife watching areas, where we had good views of Bison and distant ones of Coyote. However, the highlight was undoubtedly a family group of six American River Otters, which we watched for some time as they rolled on the sandy river bank and fished in the river, whose waters here were slower flowing than upstream. The hillsides across the river and above the sage slopes were covered in Lodgepole Pines, but scan as we may there were no signs of the other species that might be around Elk and Wolf. American River Otters (RC) En route to the north-western corner of Yellowstone we made a stop for refreshments at Canyon Village, where the facilities were still open although the accommodation had closed earlier in the month. Onwards we passed through the Norris Geyser Basin as we headed north, stopping next at Swan Lake. No swans, but a Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 9

11 large Grizzly lying beside the carcass of a Bison. Were there one or two? The debate continued well into the evening. In fact it was just one bear, but a BIG one! Mammoth, a few miles further on, is nowadays the Elk capital of Yellowstone, now that Wolves have forced this close relative of Red Deer into the safety of the forests. Just a few years ago they could frequently be seen out in open areas and along rivers in many places, but they were vulnerable to attack and have now largely retreated into the forests, or in this case, onto the open lawns of Mammoth. A large bull with a splendid rack of antlers held sway in town, guarding his harem and on the lookout for more females and rival males. With him high on testosterone the public are marshalled by the park rangers, who were frequently giving Elk and Safety briefings to the public. Great views, but the clock was against us. We did arrive at our hotel in Gardiner, a few miles further on, more or less as we had planned at 18:15, with dinner at the adjacent restaurant an hour and a half later. Paul brought the checklist up-to-date for what had been another wonderful day in an exciting corner of North America. Friday, 20 September Sunny and cloudless. 71 F What a change in the weather from a couple of days ago! This was one of the tour's 'big' days with a lot to play for, so we made a prompt start after breakfast at 07:00, and headed for the Lamar Valley in the northeast of Yellowstone. Wolves were the main target, so based on information gleaned from Canyon Village yesterday we headed along the valley towards Soda Butt, but the carcass that had attracted both Wolf and Grizzly a couple of days before had been finished. Instead we found a male Mountain Goat up on the crags above the valley further west than we expected. Had we not watched and scanned for so long we might actually have seen the Junction Wolf Pack kill a young Elk further back along the valley. Margaret had an anxious spell when she discovered her bumbag was missing. Had she left it in the dining room at breakfast time? Paul was the knight in shining armour and took her back to check and over the radio he called us up to see the Wolves. Luckily we were able to stop by the best vantage point and through the scopes could see three Wolves, one black and two grey, feeding on the carcass of the Elk, surrounded by Common Ravens and a few Black-billed Magpies. It all made great wildlife watching, unless you were an Elk of course! There were also Bison, Sandhill Cranes and Northern Harriers to be seen. We stayed for quite some time before exploring further east, closer to the Junction Pack's denning area near Slough Creek. In spite of scanning valley bottoms and sage-covered hillsides we saw neither Wolf nor bear, so after a while it was back along the valley to the kill where three Bald Eagles, two adults and a juvenile, were getting in on the act until the Wolves returned, this time there were four. It was while we were watching that Paul and Margaret returned, thankfully with the bag and tales of a group of male Rocky Mountain Bighorns (Sheep) and a Ferruginous Hawk. Luckily the Wolves were still around for them to see. Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 10 Bighorn Sheep (PR)

12 We pressed on to Cooke City and enjoyed late elevenses as we awaited lunch in a café along Main Street. As we pulled up a Mourning Cloak (Camberwell Beauty) had flown across in front on my minibus, a species that Roger had always wanted to see, so while awaiting our meal I wandered around the back streets with him. Success! Great views of one sunning itself on the edge of someone's back yard! We also added Steller's Jay to the trip list and returned before the food arrived! Afterwards others wandered around and the jay was seen again by some before we headed back towards the Lamar Valley. A stop at our traditional Mountain Goat site produced several on the rocky cliffs, with one or two Mourning Cloak (RC) showing much better than the one earlier in the day. Before leaving the area we had two for the price of one as a Merlin was mobbing a Peregrine over the cliffs on the other side of the road - a gutsy performance. Back at the kill site it appeared that the remains had been dragged up into the shelter of the woods, where just the Corvids could be seen. As we left the valley one of the bridges was crowded with watchers. We had to stop and as we waited a Grizzly came out of some willows, through the sage and down through the pines that lined the river to a Bison carcass, that could be located by smell if the wind was in the right direction, as it just happened to be for Jane! At the same time a Black Bear was wandering through the sage, perhaps a mile away, further up the hillside. Staying with the Grizzly we could see movement through the trees as shafts of sunlight caught the bear's fur from time to time. It was getting cooler and after half an hour or more I headed back towards the hotel with some of the party, only to be held up for ages at the roadworks after just a few miles. Paul and the rest watched and waited and after just ten minutes or so the Grizzly was spooked by a much larger bear that came in, forcing it to come down towards the river before it retreated back and round towards the willows again. On the way back we stopped at a small pond seeing Ruddy Duck, American Coot, Black-necked and Piedbilled Grebes before Paul's minibus overtook us having had little or no delay through the roadworks. With that it was back to the hotel and later into the restaurant for another excellent meal. Saturday, 21 September Fine and sunny again in the morning with cloud increasing during the afternoon. Temp low to mid 70 sf As it would be impossible to repeat the excitement of yesterday we opted for a local day in the Mammoth area, beginning with searching, unsuccessfully as it happened, for Bighorn Sheep along the cliffs around the Gardner River. However, a Belted Kingfisher drew attention to itself uttering its rattling call as it flew downstream; from the junipers away from the river Townsend's Solitaire sang and an American Dipper searched the splash zone of rocks in the turbulent river for invertebrates. Elk were next with a group of females and their calves browsing amongst the sage twixt road and river. We had great views especially from the bridge when they waded across to join a magnificent bull that had been resting in the shade of a nearby conifer. There were great views of a fishing Osprey and the Belted Kingfisher was seen again. Elk (RC) Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 11

13 Parking nearby we had a very pleasant walk in the warm sunshine alongside the river upstream to a point where there were hot water vents entering the river which attracted some early bathers, identified by my erstwhile colleague as Japanese Macaques, for as we approached from the west they reminded us both of films we had seen of the Japanese Snow Monkeys bathing in steaming pools. Only missing were snow and frost, which was probably just as well for otherwise we wouldn't have seen good numbers of Yellow-rumped Warblers, a female Wilson's Warbler and a Ruby-crowned Kinglet feeding up along the riverbank and in a stand of cottonwoods, where a Red-naped Sapsucker had been drilling for sap. The weeping branches attracted Mourning Cloak butterflies and watching perhaps a dozen of these beauties both at rest and flitting around the canopy was one of the highlights of the walk. Other butterflies noted were Mormon Fritillary, Clouded Sulphur and Cabbage (Small) White. We continued up to Mammoth, stopping only briefly for refreshments, for there was little Elk activity on the lawns to delay us, before pressing on to the Upper Terraces drive and a look around the thermal area that dominates the southern approach to the town. The walk down the active side gave great photo opportunities covering algae, rippling water flows, the calcified terraces and the skeletal remains of trees long killed through the effects of the thermal activity. As it was heading for lunchtime we pressed on, pausing briefly to see that the Grizzly was still at the kill on the far side of Swan Lake, before Mammoth Upper Terraces (RC) ending up at the picnic site at Sheep-eater Cliffs. The sheep eaters were the Shoshone Indians who had once been there and the cliffs were a decaying band of columnar basalt, where many columns had broken off, perhaps caused by the action of frost and snow, to form a scree slope below. Unfortunately all the tables were taken, so we were left with no alternative but to sit on the rocks amongst which Yellow Pine Chipmunks and an over-inquisitive Golden-mantled Squirrel scurried and looked for titbits, providing us with some great images of the little critters. At the same time, the picnic tables could only attract Gray Jays. Mourning Cloaks flitted by on their primrose-edged wings and a Variegated Fritillary was seen. At last we could identify the comma species as a Hoary Comma when it took a fancy to Barbara's trousers and fingers! Stopping to watch the Grizzly on our return to Mammoth, an Eared Grebe was seen amongst the regular wildfowl species, but the bear, no doubt well fed, could do little more than occasionally raise his head. Golden-mantled Squirrel (RC) Down in Mammoth we allotted some free time to call in at the visitor centre, where the ranger or volunteer behind the information desk seemed to know nothing about wildlife identification, initially telling us that the chipmunks were Eastern ones (out of range) and in the end we confirmed from the books that we had been seeing Yellow Pine Chipmunks, which was what we had suspected at lunchtime. Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 12

14 The dominant bull Elk in Mammoth was becoming more active and although no rival appeared in the scene, a couple of cows decided to try and slip away behind the central hotel. When they appeared amongst the sage on the other side of the building and he saw them, people scattered as the bull charged across to round them up. Quite exciting really! We decided to continue the Bighorn search by the Gardner River, again no luck, but there were great views of this morning's bull Elk and some of his cows in the river upstream from the bridge. Word was out that on the other side of town a Black Bear cub had been feeding on berries in a tree, but when Paul checked the location the bear and other watchers had moved on. We returned to the hotel, but as Paul came back down by the river sometime after my bus, they found two soaring immature Golden Eagles. That's the luck of it! They also detoured to see the one horse town of Jardine up a twisting road that climbed above Gardiner, no wildlife to report, but great views from up there. Dinner was again another excellent meal at the Yellowstone Mine, before we returned to the hotel for the checklist and bed. Sunday, 22 September Dry, sunny periods 70 s F After breakfast we stopped at Subways for our rolls and outside, as he waited, Tat found a flock of some 50 Cedar Waxwings feeding on berried bushes on the slope that led down to the river. On entering Yellowstone again there was no sign of the sheep, so we gave them up as a bad job and headed for the Lower Terraces, where the combination of light and water running over the calcified algae covered slopes made for some great photos. Birdwise just a few Black-billed Magpies and Yellow-rumped Warblers were the sum total there today. Along at Swan Lake the Grizzly had left any remains of the Bison behind and wandered away from view, so we pressed on southwards to Canyon Village, stopping briefly at Roaring Mountain, where a Hairy Woodpecker showed well on a bare tree. Beyond Canyon Village is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and there is a good walk down through the trees on the north side to the rim of the Lower Falls. Much easier going down than up, but well worth the walk for the views, and if one was lucky the sight of a Bald Eagle passing over as it headed south. Artist Point, on the south side of the canyon, was our next stop, along with dozens of other tourists including what seemed like half the population of Shanghai! So once we'd taken our photos, which included great ones of an American Red Squirrel gathering pine cones ahead of the coming winter, we headed on to the Hayden Valley and a picnic site near Otter Creek, where there was yet another very obliging American Dipper. Just a mile or two upstream we found four adult Trumpeter Swans feeding in the river's shallow waters and with the reflections of dark conifers in the water they looked whiter than white. Another great viewing opportunity just before we entered the Hayden Valley proper. No sign of the otters this time and where were all the Bison? Unusually we could only find a handful, but what views! It turned into our best Bison experience with some wonderful photo-opportunities before they came too close and we retreated to the safety of the minibuses, which was just as well as a few minutes later a ranger Bison (RC) Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 13

15 appeared! Seeing how sensible and co-operative we were when he asked us to move to the other side of the road, he became so helpful and really friendly, suggesting that we went down to the river as he had chased four or five large bulls that way after they had been loitering on the road. More great views, but they chose not to cross to the other side, returning to rejoin the rest of the herd instead. There, all the party saw a Steller's Jay, a species a few years ago we took for granted. With plenty of time in hand we decided to head east across Fishing Bridge to Indian Pond and hike to Storm Point where there is a large Yellow-belly Marmot colony. On the pond was a flock of over 30 Redheads and another of Barrow's Goldeneye. The walk took us to the edge of Yellowstone Lake and through a section of conifers where some time ago a storm or fire had felled many trees, for their replacements had grown to full size. Out at Storm Point there were numerous marmot burrows beneath the rocks, but with a freshening chilly wind the critters seem to have gone to ground. We settled for a pair of Townsend s Solitaires and further great views of an American Red Squirrel with a pine cone. American Red Squirrel (RC) Driving on we arrived at Grant Village and our base for the next two nights in good time to check-in and relax before dinner in the adjacent restaurant. Monday, 23 September Dry, sunny periods and threatening clouds at times. 59 F, much cooler in keen wind Today was another of the tour's big days. With lots to see and do, we left Grant Village before breakfast and after the frost had been scraped from the windows, for Old Faithful, where we watched an eruption of the world famous geyser before breakfast in the historic inn. The sun wasn't shining, but with the still early morning air the plume of steam and water towered high above the area, justifying the early start. Fortified within we saw another some 90 minutes later. Only 25 years ago the eruptions were some 72 minutes apart. Our second viewing was quite different for the sun shone through the clouds, but the wind had picked up significantly and blew the steam off the line of the blow. Some of the party watched from the usual area along with many other geyser gazers, whilst others opted for a different angle, going for a contra jour viewpoint instead. During a period of free time afterwards there was the visitor centre to see and an extensive system of paths amongst other thermal features to explore. Old Faithful (RC) Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 14

16 Midway Geyser Basin was next on the itinerary and a visit to the Grand Prismatic Spring in particular. The cold air created more steam than was appreciated, but with the sun shining between black clouds the overall effect was dramatic, although the orange and turquoise spring was largely obscured by the excessive steam. A dipper fed around the bridge supports as we crossed the Firehole River. Next we visited Fountain Paint Pots, a collection of thermal features ranging from boiling and bubbling mud pools to constantly squirting geysers, Grand Prismatic Spring (RC) all of which have combined to kill off a large number of trees below. By this time lunch was calling, so we headed for Whiskey Flats and some picnic tables, although not everyone chose to eat outside today. During the afternoon we continued along the Firehole River, much loved by fishermen and where we enjoyed even better views of Trumpeter Swans than yesterday. We then explored the Madison River that heads westwards towards West Yellowstone. We found Elk, but not in the river this time and saw Osprey, Bald Eagles and two Cooper's Hawks. The autumnal colours were coming to the Aspens, but still have a long way to go. The dramatic single track road along Firehole Canyon was next for the photographers, offering some spectacular views of water foaming over rapids beneath steep craggy cliffs. Trumpeter Swan (TT) As we neared the Paint Pots on our way back south we came on a Bison jam to eclipse all past Bison jams cars stretched for miles in both directions as a large herd of the lumbering beasts lingered along the roadsides and crossing to and fro. A great encounter, but not the easiest situation for photography, but after yesterday's encounter, who's complaining? Isa Lake on the Continental Divide south of Old Faithful was our next stop. Although the water levels seemed low the flow from the southern side of the lake reaches the Pacific via the Snake and the northern stream eventually joins the Madison, which in turn joins the Missouri and flows into the Gulf of Mexico via the Mississippi! With time in hand we took a last look at Yellowstone Lake finding more Barrow's Goldeneye and having great views of a bull Elk and females on the run back to Grant Village. Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 15

17 Tuesday, 24 September Fine and chilly a.m. after overnight frost. Clouded over during afternoon. 65ºF We left promptly after breakfast, heading south with our first stop at Lewis Falls, where an American Dipper was seen by some of the party. Once into Grand Teton National Park we stopped for the 'traditional' photograph of the golden Aspens in their full glory. How the colours have improved while we were up in Yellowstone, but to have stopped for every 'wow' stand of trees would have thrown the day's schedule out of kilter. Instead we limited stops to Willow Flats, Oxbow Bend and Snake River Overlook, three sites that offered more than enough in the way of material for the photographers, even if the birding was limited. Mt Moran from Oxbow Bend (RC) To the south of Moran Junction the Bison had returned to the meadows along the fast road, but as the range was more than ten yards we pressed on, having heard that there were two bears along the Moose-Wilson Road. Unfortunately the news was old news, for there was no sign of either the bears or those watching them. Still it brought us into Jackson via a new route, which succeeded in causing a flip in the navigation to Subways. However we only lost about ten minutes detouring through town and once back on the road we were able to stop at a wildlife area to the south of town, where the wildlife included Wilson's and Yellowrumped Warblers, White-crowned and Song Sparrows, a Mourning Cloak and a species of Catocala moth - a Crimson Underwing, but which one? Continuing south the colours improved even more beyond Holbeck Junction as the reds of the Bigtooth Maples kicked in. Just beyond Alpine Junction at least one of the Osprey's nests near the highway had been vacated and on reaching the farmland of the Star Valley there were Swainson's Hawks hunting over fields that were being harvested. The very dark Red-tailed Hawks would have been of Harlan's race, down to winter from their breeding areas in Alaska and Arctic Canada. Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 16

18 A refreshment stop in Afton was welcomed by both drivers and passengers, but after that there was little of note until we made a short birding break at Allred Flats Campground, roughly 20 miles south of Afton, where there were no birds until Jane and Ellen saw a grouse strut across the road - our first Ruffed Grouse at last! In fact there were two, one being only marginally more co-operative than the other which flew almost immediately. The other remained in the shade beneath dark trees and amongst sparse vegetation until it too flew before anyone succeeded in securing a worthwhile image! Onwards to our Montpellier hotel, where we arrived on the dot of 6 p.m. Dinner was Chinese tonight at the only one in town. Wednesday, 25 September Rain for much of the morning falling as snow on the mountains, becoming brighter at times in afternoon. Chilly. 49ºF Once loaded and reprovisioned we left Montpelier and began our exploration of Bear Lake Refuge, which in the rain wasn't easy. However, in spite of the rain, Northern Harriers were hunting and the weather did nothing to deter a Belted Kingfisher and a male Ruddy Duck in winter plumage. Along the main drainage canal were several Redheads, an adult and dependant juvenile Western Grebe and the first Musk Rat of the tour. Around the auto route circuit we found our first White-faced Ibis, Canvasback, Pectoral Sandpipers (11), Marsh Wren and Common Yellowthroat. A Great Horned Owl flushed from the grassy bank below the track and Belted Kingfisher (PR) disappeared across a drainage channel and into the marsh beyond, not to be seen again. Over one of the lagoons there were dozens of Barn Swallows as well as a lone Red-necked Phalarope swimming amongst the wildfowl. Having passed through Paris, we stopped briefly to scan the water treatment ponds near St. Charles, where there were hundreds more Barn Swallows and a mixed flock of Redheads and Ring-necked Ducks. Chilled, we decided to eat our lunch in the minibuses near Garden City, where along a roadside fence we had great views of Chipping Sparrows, most of which were immature birds. Nearby a café provided welcome cups of coffee, but sadly didn't do hot chocolate, which on a day like this would have been much more appropriate especially as the last passing storm had coated the mountain tops with a layer of fresh snow. Chipping Sparrow (RC) Continuing our journey south we thankfully found that the snow line was higher than Bear Summit and the view point overlooking Bear Lake. As we headed down towards and into Logan Canyon we made a number of stops to photograph the autumn colours, some with snow covered peaks and conifers in the background, although the colours were still running late this year they would have been enhanced by more sunshine today. We became aware of a southward passage of Clark's Nutcrackers, doubtless being encouraged to move to lower elevations by the Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 17

19 weather in the mountains and at one stop we had an adult Golden Eagle fly lazily cross the canyon. Logan Canyon (RC) After we passed through Logan several Swainson's Hawks lingered around the farmland and then beyond Brigham, the next town, we headed out on to Bear River Refuge, which we learned was very dry before the tour started. Indeed it was, but we still saw some good birds with Forster's Tern and Great Egret being welcome additions to the bird list. Also seen were White-faced Ibis, Northern Pintail, a pair of Sandhill Cranes, Horned Lark and a number of Northern Harriers. After a while there seemed little point in continuing further, so we returned to the interstate and headed down to our hotel at Ogden, where we received a warm welcome and could enjoy some relaxing time before returning to the nearby restaurant for another excellent dinner. Thursday, 26 September Heavy clouds, low over the mountains looked stormy, but remained dry with bright periods. 55ºF Under leaden skies we set off for Antelope Island again in the hope of there being a fallout of migrants after yesterday s bad weather, but as it turned out that was not the case, although there were compensations. The water levels had perhaps risen a little and distant stretches of water still held tens of thousands of birds. With the sun trying to break through at times and back lighting the clouds the vistas down the lake were quite dramatic. At one time there were three different Peregrines in view, but all distant. One was plucking prey on a log, the second was perched on another log and looking around, whilst the third bird was even further away circling above a wheeling cloud of shorebirds. We came across more Killdeer than on any previous tour with the numbers for the day running into three figures! The same could be said for Snowy Plover when a flock of some 20 birds landed on a gravel spit just in from of us. With them were three Western Sandpipers, so two new birds for the trip at one go! The next was one that we had hoped for, but it was a long shot - Sabine's Gull! Roger saw a head poking above the foam that had accumulated along the southern side of the causeway. The bird flew almost immediately, revealing the distinctive wing pattern and dark upperparts of a Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 18

20 juvenile Sabine's. It flew back towards Paul's minibus before heading south down the Great Salt Lake. Further on near the marina we found a second bird, but that too flew shortly after being spotted and after crossing the road it too headed away down the lake. Also seen from the causeway were masses of American Avocets and Eared Grebes, but during the morning the only Red-necked Phalaropes were the few that still frequented the marina. As we drove around past the beach there were more Western Meadowlarks than seen previously, whilst those with Paul also saw a Rock Wren and Chukar. We hurried down to Garr Ranch as neither Bison or Pronghorn were particularly close to the road and looking to the north and northwest black clouds threatened. American Avocet and Red-necked Phalarope (TT) American Avocets (RC) Once at Garr Ranch we set off birding, some to look for migrants and others to see if the Great Horned Owls were about. Migrants, we were soon to discover were thin on the ground, but before long we were wrestling with Empidonax flycatcher identification; eventually deciding that all seen were Cordilleran. There were several Yellow-rumped Warblers and some of the party found a MacGillivray's Warbler in the woods, where the commonest species was Ruby-crowned Kinglet. Hermit Thrushes had not been there two weeks ago and it required several glimpses before worthwhile views were obtained. American Tree Porcupine (PR) Meanwhile the two juvenile owls were showing better than previously allowing some good photos to be obtained. One was eating a bird, but even with the aid of photos we could not be 100% certain of the victim's identity. Not far away in another clump of trees a North American Porcupine at its daytime roost caused more excitement - our 23rd mammal species, although it wasn't particularly interested in the battery of optics looking up at it. Not far away one of the adult Great Horned Owls was discovered after lunch, but to get anything like a worthwhile picture one had to be a contortionist! Sunny spells and warmer sheltered areas favoured the few butterflies still on the wing. Tat had a Mylitta Crescent land on his gloved fingers and later another was watched trying to land on the back of a West Coast Lady - funny we thought! Also seen were Monarch, Field Crescent and Cabbage White. West Coast Lady and Mylitta Crescent (RB) Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 19

21 By mid-afternoon we decided to begin the run back to our hotel, seeing our first Loggerhead Shrike soon after leaving the ranch and a Golden Eagle further on, not far in fact from where we had seen one two weeks ago. Sage Thrasher, more Western Meadowlarks, Pheasant, Chukar and a Coyote were all seen before we left the island. Near the marina two Long-billed Curlew showed well and just across the road we had great views of a juvenile Sabine's Gull with Tat getting to within a few feet before it flew. Several hundred yards along the causeway was the bridge that allows water to flow between sections of the lake and there we found thousands of Red-necked Phalaropes and Eared Grebes and two more juvenile Sabine's Gulls great stuff. Tat even discovered two Slavonian (Horned in North America) Grebes. Another birder was watching the activity from his pickup. He was Paul Higgins, a regular contributor to the Utah bird forum and a superb photographer, whose images can be viewed at His pictures have been used to illustrate a number of books including the recently published Peterson Reference Guide to Seawatching Eastern Waterbirds in Flight by Ken Behrens and Cameron Cox it's Paul's picture of a drake Harlequin Duck on the front cover! Sabine s Gull and Red-necked Phalaropes (PR) With that last excitement we headed back to Ogden, our hotel and our last meal at the Mexican restaurant, which included a belated birthday cake for one Jill and an early one for the other Jill, who celebrates her birthday the day after we return home. Happy birthday, girls! Friday, 28 September Although we had an early morning dry run down to Salt Lake City airport, the weather closed in after we had cleared the formalities and were waiting for our flight to Chicago. Just as well we weren't on Antelope Island today! Our flight left on time, which was more than could be said for our onward connection to London a few hours later, which was delayed by almost an hour and a half because of an admin problem with missing paperwork. Saturday, 29 September After a bumpy Atlantic crossing we arrived at London's Heathrow over an hour late and thankfully all the luggage arrived as well, even if a bag or two were amongst the last to come through. In Chicago we had said Goodbye to Jardine and Ellen, who had a connection from London to Edinburgh, whilst the rest of us bade our farewells to one another at the luggage carousel as we awaited the arrival of our bags, before facing the last legs of our journeys home. Acknowledgements Firstly I should like to thank you all for coming and being such good company. Thanks too for your punctuality and help in many ways, especially Jardine, Roger and Tat for their help in loading and unloading the minibuses whenever we moved on to a new accommodation. Jardine and Roger also chipped in with the Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 20

22 cleaning of the minibuses at the end of the trip. Thank you guys! It was a fun trip with many laughs surely matched by many wonderful wildlife and scenic viewing opportunities. Thanks to those of you who provided pictures for this report and also to Peter Allen for the damselfly i.d. and to Lawrence F. Gall (Yale University) for the i.d. of the crimson underwing moth. For Paul and I it is a well-honed trip, but this one will stand out for its dramatic weather and subsequent lighting. There were many instances where we hadn't seen so many of this, or had never seen that better, and there were even a few write-ins on the checklist too! We did 1,760 miles and visited three states Utah, Idaho and Wyoming - and goodness knows how many photos were taken between us I hope you are pleased with the results. It's always so good to have Paul as my coleader. We have done so many together that we almost know what the other is thinking unusual for the male of the species! Thanks Paul for your company, help, input and those pearls of wisdom. We all hope your forthcoming knee operations are a great success good luck! Both Paul and I look forward to seeing you again on another Ornitholidays' tour in the not too distant future there are plenty to choose from in the brochure. Richard Coomber Ornitholidays 29, Straight Mile Romsey Hampshire SO51 9BB info@ornitholidays.co.uk October 2013 Bison (PR) Ornitholidays to USA Utah and Wyoming September 2013 Page 21