BALI TO KOMODO 29 October to 7 November 2014

Transcription

1 TRIP REPORT BALI TO KOMODO 29 October to 7 November 2014 MV Mermaid I, Rinca Komodo Dragons Sperm Whale off Lombok By tour leader Dr Chas Anderson WildWings / WildOceans Tel: tours@wildwings.co.uk Web:

2 BALI TO KOMODO Indonesia, 29 Oct to 7 Nov 2014 Summary A wonderful 10-day wildlife cruise from Bali to Komodo and back. There were plenty of cetacean sightings, with ten species recorded in all, including hundreds of Spotted, Spinner, Fraser s and Bottlenose Dolphins, as well as Melon-headed Whales and Sperm Whales. Seabirds were also plentiful, with key species including Abbott s Booby, Streaked Shearwater, Bulwer s Petrel, Golden Bosunbird and Christmas Island Frigatebird. While birding on land we picked up several very nice species including Orange-footed Scrubfowl (=Megapode), Yellow-crested Cockatoo and Helmeted Friarbird. However, the big terrestrial attraction was the Komodo Dragon. We had walks ashore on both Komodo itself and Rinca, with many Dragons seen both times. For many, though, the best encounters were on a beach at the southern tip of Rinca where we could view the Dragons from the safety of our launches, just a few feet offshore. There was also plenty of time for snorkelling (and diving for some), which was world-class. The coral reefs were magnificent, and diversity of reef fishes overwhelming. But highlight must be our visits to Manta Alley at the southern end of Komodo Island, where we twice enjoyed fabulous encounters with Manta Rays. All this on the very comfortable MV Mermaid I, where we were pampered by the delightful crew, and overindulged by the chefs. Day 1, Wednesday 29 Oct 2014 After arriving in Bali at different times we all converged on our expedition vessel, MV Mermaid I, in the early afternoon. The engines were soon started and we were off, with our safety briefing and orientation talk still underway. the clouds over the land dissolved we had great views of the classic volcanic cone of Gunung Agung (3142m). After the glorious sunset there was time for a shower, a leisurely drink for those who wanted, and dinner. Day 2, Thursday 30 Oct 2014 What a fantastic day! We had sailed through the night, past the north of Lombok, and as dawn broke we were still heading east, off the north coast of Sumbawa. The sea was calm and the cetacean sightings started early, with a glimpse of distant glimmering shapes. They were dolphins, and as we approached they rushed in to bowride. Now we could make out their short snouts and small triangular dorsal fins Fraser s Dolphins. MV Mermaid I We were soon out in the channel between Bali and Nusa Penida, and heading northeast towards Lombok. Among the birds seen were three gorgeous golden White-tailed Tropicbirds (aka Golden Bosunbird), a small flock of Bridled Terns, a trio of Brown Boobies and a couple of migrating Barn Swallows. Sailing up the coast of Bali we passed the busy ferry port of Padangbai, and as Fraser s Dolphin

3 There must have been over 300 Fraser s in all, and then we noticed some slightly larger and darker animals, Melon-headed Whales, of which there were perhaps The whole mass of dolphins was moving slowly westwards, and we went with them, allowing group after group to bowride. Eventually it was time to move on, and we turned back on course. After the morning s rush of cetaceans, this afternoon started rather slowly. But eventually we found some schools of Spotted Dolphins on the way in to Satonda. The clouds over Sumbawa cleared as we approached, giving us our first view of Tambora (2935m), the volcano that in 1815 produced perhaps the greatest eruption in recorded history. At Satonda there was the choice of a dive or a snorkel on the nearby reef (which among other things produced a Blue-spotted Stingray, a host of Anemonefishes, and numerous Featherstars emerging to feed at dusk), or a trip ashore (to see the crater lake, with roosting Fruit Bats and several birds). Melon-headed Whales Next up, a big group of Spotted Dolphins (well spotted, Kenny!). They were spread out over a wide area, but again small subgroups readily came in to bowride. After leaving the Spotteds it wasn t long before our next encounter, this time with an active group of Common Bottlenose Dolphins. Later, looking at our photos, we noticed a single Fraser s Dolphin in amongst them. Bottlenose Dolphin By now we were approaching Moyo Island, and the site of our first snorkel, Angel Reef. The reef flat here is carpeted with dense coral growths, and supports a dazzling variety of reef fishes. But a real highlight here is the Banded Sea-snake (Colubrina laticauda), and we were able to follow several as they hunted over the shallow reef. Another attraction, found further round the reef slope, is the dense meadow of Garden Eels (Gorgasia maculata). Once we were back on board, lunch was ready and MV Mermaid got underway. We headed around the top of Moyo to Satonda Island. Banded Sea-snake In addition to the landbirds on Satonda, out at sea today there were Red-footed Boobies, Brown Boobies, a Red-necked Phalarope, Bridled Terns (one being chased by a Pomarine Skua), a Lesser Frigatebird and a Christmas Island Frigatebird. But the most interesting birds seen at sea today were migrant landbirds, including Barn Swallow, Pacific Swift (=Fork-tailed Swift), and a most unexpected Northern Hawk-owl (=Northern Boobook) flying resolutely SW, which twice alighted (briefly) on the Mermaid. This owl breeds in East Asia and is a regular winter

4 visitor to Wallacea, but was still a pleasant surprise for us. Back on board after our various activities, there was just time to grab a hot shower or a cold drink, and head up to the upper deck to watch the last of the sunset and the first of the Fruit Bats heading across from their roost in Satonda to their feeding grounds on Sumbawa. Evening talk: Dolphins of Indonesia (part 1) Day 3, Friday 31 Oct 2014 Another fabulous day! We had sailed overnight, and as the sun came up we were still underway, approaching Sangeang Island. This is an active volcano, with smoke still issuing from the crater. Near the island we found an active group of Melon-headed Whales and Fraser s Dolphins. And a single Lesser Frigatebird sailed overhead. Soon after anchoring we were into the dinghies for our morning snorkel or dive, at the site known as Hot Rocks. Here gas bubbles up from the sea floor, and the underlying rocks are, if not exactly hot, then certainly warm. Soft corals were especially abundant here. And on the vertical surfaces of the rocks, bright orange Tubastrea corals were thriving. Other highlights included an extremely well camouflaged Scorpionfish, several Nudibranchs, and an Octopus. Back on board, breakfast was soon ready and we were off. After leaving Sangeang, it was not long before we had our next cetacean sighting: a mixed group of Fraser s and Risso s Dolphins. The Fraser s bowrode, but the Risso s avoided us. Several did, however, lift their flukes up in the air, in their characteristic style. Soon after leaving this big group we found another small school of Risso s Dolphins, but they also avoided us, so we moved on. Nudibranch sea-slug (Nembrotha cristata) Near Gili Banta we came across an aggregation of some 80+ Red-footed Boobies, feeding in association with a large group of Spotted Dolphins and there were Spinner Dolphins too. We spent a long time here, enjoying the Spotteds bowriding and energetic leaps. By the time we left, it was time for late lunch. Soon afterwards we anchored in Mota Bay, at the northern end of Komodo Island. All into the dinghies for snorkelling or diving on the nearby reef, which was covered with luxuriant growths of hard corals, soft corals and sea fans. There were numerous schools of fish, giant sea anemones with Anemonefishes, a giant Batfish and Sweetlips. As we moved on from this site, the breeze, which had picked up earlier in the afternoon, died away completely, and the sea became mirror-calm. Further round the coast we spotted our final cetaceans of the day, a small school of Spinner Dolphins. The sun set behind Komodo. Volcanic gas at Hot Rocks

5 Birds today included a smattering of Rednecked Phalaropes, one Lesser Frigatebird, a Whiskered Tern which flew around the boat first thing, a Barn Swallow, Pacific Swifts, White-bellied Sea-eagle and an unidentified Buzzard. was perhaps the most diverse we had seen so far. I counted nine species of Angelfish alone. There were also Blacktip Reef Sharks, and several Hawksbill Turtles, feeding on the reef. Evening talk: Dolphins of Indonesia (part 2). And after dinner, cake: Happy Birthday Dave! Day 4, Saturday 1 Nov 2014 We woke to a lovely calm, sunny day, anchored off Rinca Island. The dinghies took us on the short run ashore, where we were met by a small troop of Long-tailed Macaques. At the ranger station, our guides were waiting, armed with stout forked sticks to ward off any over-interested Komodo Dragons. And there were plenty about, with five medium-sized individuals, plus a couple of smaller ones, just nearby. A walk with the rangers through the woods produced another Dragon, this time a large female on her nesting area. The nests are dug out initially by Megapodes (=Orangefooted Scrubfowl), a pair of which were scratching through the undergrowth just nearby. Other birds seen included Yellowspectacled White-eye, Great Tit, Wallacean Drongo, Imperial Green Pigeon and Largebilled Crow. There were Timor Deer (Rusa) too. Back on board, there was time for a cooling shower before a very welcome breakfast. Just as we had finished, and were getting underway a White-bellied Sea-eagle swooped down to pick up some morsel from the sea surface just alongside. Our cruise across to Tatawa Besar island produced two sightings of Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins, both small groups hunting along reef edges for fish. Swedish Flag Angelfish At Tatawa Besar we enjoyed a superb snorkel (and dive for two) on the long reef. With wonderful visibility and bright midday light, the corals looked magnificent. And the fishlife Hawksbill Turtle Back on board it was time for lunch. Then we were off, cruising across to Gililawa Darat island, for our second snorkel and dive. Here the visibility was not quite so good as before, but the corals were if anything even more impressive. And the fishlife again was stunning. Among the several highlights: a really giant Bumphead Parrotfish, a filterfeeding Sea Cucumber, Spotfin Lionfish and more Hawksbill Turtles. It was now time to start heading towards our night s anchorage at Komodo. As the sun set, we made our way southwards over the mirror calm sea. In such conditions we were able to spot no fewer than three large Manta Rays. But highlight for many was a new bird for the trip, Streaked Shearwater. Evening talk: Whales of Indonesia. Day 5, Monday 2 Nov 2014 An early-ish start with a run ashore in the dinghies to Komodo Island. We went in two groups: one with birders who wanted to spend more time on the island, and the rest for a shorter dragon walk. Both groups had close encounters with hungry and persistent Komodo Dragons. There were also Timor Deer (=Rusa) and the birders had a nice clutch of sightings, including Yellow-crested Cockatoo, Golden Whistler, Lemon-bellied White-eye, Green Junglefowl, Wallacean Drongo, Flame-breasted Sunbird and Helmeted Friarbird. Both walks ended at the small market, which offered a tempting range of locally carved dragons.

6 we turned in towards our anchorage at Komodo. Evening talk: Alfred Russel Wallace. Day 6, Tuesday 3 Nov 2014 After breakfast we set off into the deep-water Linta Strait. We spotted Spinner Dolphins almost immediately and spent a little time them, before moving on towards the southern tip of Komodo Island. Here we anchored and set out for our snorkel or dive at Manta Alley. The Mantas were moving from the Alley round to the outer rocks, so we moved around too. Within seconds of jumping in there were Mantas beneath us. For some time there were just ones and twos, but gradually the numbers built up, and before the last of us got out of the water there perhaps 20 swimming along the reef. For the divers too there was a continuous succession of Mantas. Wow! Manta Ray We all returned to the boat abuzz with excitement, and ready for our late lunch. As we moved off, we passed through a school of Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins. Offshore there were hundreds of Red-necked Phalaropes, and good numbers of Frigatebirds. But our big sighting was of Spotted Dolphins. We found an enormous school, perhaps 600-strong, charging across the ocean. As we travelled with them, small groups rushed in to ride our bow. We finally left this superpod, and headed back in to the Linta Strait. Despite the calm conditions we did not find any cetaceans, and as the sun set The sea was mirror-calm again when we woke. At 0730 we were off in the dinghies for our morning snorkel and dive at Pink Beach. The wide reef was covered with soft corals and hydrozoans, as well as a smattering of sea fans. A big Cuttlefish and a couple of Hawksbill Turtles also kept us happy. Heading out into Linta Strait we passed the regular group of Spinner Dolphins. As usual, they were dozy after their night s feeding, and avoided us when we approached. So we left them and sailed out into the deep water. Here we found a largish group of Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins, which gave several good views. As we rounded the southern tip of Rinca, Brown Boobies were flying in to what appeared like nest sites on the steep cliffs of Pulau Nusakode. Offshore, we found a large mixed school of Spotted and Spinner Dolphins. They were charging across the ocean, and we turned to travel with them. In due course we left them and continued on our way. There were thousands of Red-necked Phalaropes, more Brown Boobies and some Common Terns, but unfortunately despite the continuing flat calm conditions we did not find any more cetaceans. We completed a wide circuit, arriving back at Horseshoe Bay at the very south of Rinca in time for our afternoon excursions. First, a trip to the beach for everyone to see the Komodo Dragons. There were three out on the beach, and they lurched down to the very shoreline as we approached. Once everyone had had a good look, and a chance to take plenty of photos, it was back to the main boat. We then diverged, with some going for a snorkel (enjoying Bluespotted Stingray, soft corals and featherstars), others for a dive, and the rest back to the beach. There we spent time again with the large Dragons at one end of the beach. However, another couple of slightly smaller Dragons had wandered on to the other end. On our way back to the boat we diverted to have a

7 look at them. They were busy eyeing each other up for a fight, hissing and then erupting into a fierce but brief tussle. There was still time for another change of boats, with an opportunity for one dinghy to go in search of birds, while the other headed back to the Dragons. greater numbers. There may have been 20 or more in our small area, some up to nearly 3m across, with up to 5 in view at one time. After over an hour we reluctantly pulled ourselves out of the water, and returned to the boat, tingling with excitement. Komodo Dragons tussling After a superb sunset, bats appeared in the lights behind the boat. Those who wanted headed off for an exciting night dive on a nearby reef. Day 7, Tuesday 4 Nov 2014 We left Rinca before dawn, to make the crossing over to Komodo. With a calm sea we made good time, although we did divert for a large school of Spotted Dolphins, which rushed in to bowride. Spotted Dolphins At south Komodo we anchored near Manta Alley, although such a current was running that we had to move anchorage before the Captain was happy. A check of the site showed that the current was very strong indeed, so we decided to wait until it moderated. Just 30 minutes later we were in the water. Within seconds we had seen Mantas swimming underneath. Several were passing to and fro along the reef edge beneath us. For a few minutes they seemed to disappear, but then they reappeared in even Manta Ray After breakfast we set off, up the Sape Strait, along the west coast of Komodo. There were a few Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins as we left our anchorage, then a large mixed school of Spotted and Spinner Dolphins, with Lesser Frigatebirds in attendance. Not long afterwards we found a few more Indo-pacific Bottlenose. After that we had several Sailfish, jumping and swimming at the surface. But the highlight of this transit was undoubtedly provided by the seabirds. There were several Bulwer s Petrels on passage, flying south and west down the Strait. And just after noon we spotted a Wilson s Storm-petrel, which approached close enough for photos to show the characteristic yellow webbing on the black feet. This was interesting enough, but just 10 minutes later we approached a white-looking booby sitting on the water. Only as we passed alongside and it took off did we realise that it was an Abbott s Booby bird of the trip for some. Later there were more Red-footed Boobies, a second Wilson s Storm-petrel, and a distant viewing of a Pomarine Skua chasing what looked like another Abbott s Booby. And there were land birds too, with both Barn Swallows and Pacific Swifts crossing over from Sumbawa to Komodo. Off the northern tip of Komodo some distant splashing drew us offshore. It was another large school of Spotted Dolphins, with Redfooted Boobies in attendance. Again they rushed in to bowride, providing some wonderful photo opportunities. With the day

8 drawing on, it was time to turn towards our next anchorage, off the island of Gililawa. This is the setting off point to visit the offshore pinnacle of Crystal Rock for our late afternoon snorkel or dive. And what a great one! With superb visibility, luxuriant soft corals and abundant fish life, it really is a cracking site. Highlight for the divers were the sharks with some 7-8 Whitetip Reef Sharks and one Grey Reef Shark hanging in front of the current point. Evening talk: Wildlife photography, by Tom Day 8, Wednesday 5 Nov 2014 The morning started with a snorkel or dive off Gill Lawalaut, at Lighthouse Point. On the boat out some spotted Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphins, and a pair of Ospreys (with a massive nest on the light post). There was also a Spotted Kestrel on the island. The reef itself was gorgeous patches of hard and soft coral interspersed with white coral sand, reflecting the bright morning light. The current changed at least twice during our snorkel, which made for an interesting time in the water. Back on board for breakfast and we were off, heading westwards on the start of our long transit back towards Bali. Not long after setting off some splashes drew us towards some Spinner Dolphins, which bowrode exuberantly. Among the seabirds seen during the morning were several Bulwer s Petrels heading SW on passage, and a single Streaked Shearwater. Later we spotted a Wilson s Storm-petrel and a Skua, probably an Arctic Skua, harassing a Red-footed Booby. As we approached Sangeang volcano, we could see smoke billowing from the main crater, and a new fissure on its flank. But before we arrived we had three more cetacean encounters. First, a couple of prau manching (local fishing boats) attracted our attention. As suspected, they were fishing for tuna in association with Spotted Dolphins, which seemed happy to bowride. Next, a distant sighting of a cetacean back. We moved closer and waited, and were rewarded with two beaked whales surfacing. We moved closer again, and again saw them clearly at the surface, although not quite clearly enough to allow specific identification. Then as we made our final approach to Sangeang a tight bunch of dolphins surfaced directly in front of us. They immediately moved away so we could not be sure what they were, but once they surfaced again we could see that they were Fraser s Dolphins our fifth species for the day. The reef on the south side of Sangeang provided us with a superb dive and snorkel. The black coral sand contrasting nicely with the corals. At depth the reef was luxuriantly covered with corals, hydroids, sponges and an astonishing array of featherstars, many of which were luminous lime green. Also present were many technicolor nudibranchs and an orang-utan crab. Afterwards, we continued westwards, with the sun setting over Sumbawa ahead of us, and the full moon rising over Sangeang astern. Evening talk: Tuna fisheries and cetaceans. Day 9, Thursday 6 Nov 2014 Our last full day on board, and a great one! Mermaid had travelled overnight, and when we woke this morning we were anchored off Moyo Island, near the small fishing village of Labuanhaji. There was a choice of a snorkel at Angel Reef, or a dive at the adjacent Little Angel Reef. For both, the water was exceptionally clear, and at both sites there were the same great corals, schools of fishes, and Banded Sea-snakes. For the divers there were also Jawfish holding eggs in their mouths, Mantis Shrimp, and a wonderful Lionfish. Common Lionfish with Featherstars

9 Back on board, after breakfast, we were off, heading west towards Lombok and Bali. The sea was still calm, and got even calmer as the day progressed. There were several seabirds about including Brown Boobies, Bridled Terns, at least one Pomarine Skua, a Wilson s Storm-petrel and several Bulwer s Petrels. Our cetacean sightings started with a superbly energetic group of Bottlenose Dolphins. After spending some time with them, we passed seamlessly on to a school of Spotted Dolphins. Not long afterwards we had more Spotted Dolphins, and then a distant sighting of 6 or more large whales, possibly Sperm Whales. We approached the spot where they had been logging, but could not find them. We waited and waited, but nothing appeared. This was the start of a rather frustrating interlude with perfect viewing conditions but no cetacean sightings. Our luck finally changed late in the afternoon, as we were approaching Lombok. A small group of Spotted Dolphins, this time with local fishing boats, caught our attention. Then not far off the boat s side a mother and calf Dwarf Sperm Whale surfaced. We watched them for some time before noticing a much larger Sperm Whale in the distance, which promptly fluked. But as we made our way in that direction another appeared, and then four more, plus a couple of Pilot Whales, one of which spy-hopped. As the sun dipped over Lombok, silhouetting the giant volcano Rinjani, we had Sperm Whales ahead in the orange glow of the setting sun, and more astern in the glimmering silver reflection of the full moon. What a stunning finale! Evening presentation: Trip video. Day 10, Friday 7 Nov 2014 Breakfast was served as we made our final approach to Bali. We docked at Benoa at 0800, and disembarked soon after. Sangeang Volcano

10 CETACEANS During this trip we recorded a very respectable total of 48 sightings, of 10 different species: Species Scientific Name No. Sightings Est. no. Individuals Spotted Dolphin Stenella attenuata Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris Indo-pacific Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops aduncus Common Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops truncatus 7 72 Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops sp. 1 3 Risso s Dolphin Grampus griseus 2 50 Fraser s Dolphin Lagenodolphis hosei Melon-headed Whale Peponocephala electra Pilot Whale Globicephala macrorhynchus 1 2 Sperm Whale Physeter macrocephalus 1 6 Dwarf Sperm Whale Kogia sima 1 2 Beaked Whale Ziphiidae 1 2 Unidentified cetacean White-tailed Tropicbird (Golden Bosun) BIRDS Orange-footed Scrubfowl Green Junglefowl Little Grebe Bulwer s Petrel Streaked Shearwater Wilson s Storm-petrel White-tailed Tropicbird Abbott s Booby Brown Booby Red-footed Booby Australian Pelican Christmas Island Frigatebird Lesser Frigatebird Great-billed Heron Pacific Reef-heron Striated Heron Osprey Pomarine Skua Metallic Pigeon Island Collared Dove Spotted Dove Barred Dove Green Imperial Pigeon Yellow-crested Cockatoo Northern Boobook Cave Swiftlet Fork-tailed Swift Collared Kingfisher Sacred Kingfisher Blue-tailed Bee-eater Helmeted Friarbird Large-billed Crow Black-naped Monarch Barn Swallow

11 Brahminy Kite White-bellied Sea-eagle Japanese Sparrowhawk Spotted Kestrel Beach Thick-knee Common Sandpiper Whimbrel Red-necked Phalarope Bridled Tern Little Tern Gull-billed Tern Great Crested Tern Lesser Crested Tern Pacific Swallow Great (Cinereous) Tit Yellow-vented Bulbul Pied Bushchat Golden Whistler Yellow-spectacled White-eye Plain-throated Sunbird Olive-backed Sunbird Flame-breasted Sunbird Black-naped Oriole Wallacean Drongo White-breasted Wood-swallow Contact details WildWings Tel: Web: On Komodo