SPITSBERGEN TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 SPITSBERGEN TOUR JUNE 2007 TOUR REPORT LEADER: MARK VAN BEIRS Svalbard holds some of Europe s most fabulous scenery and some of its most spectacular wildlife and on our week s cruise along the shores of the northern regions of this archipelago we got more than our share of what was on offer. The M/V Professor Multanovskiy took us to glorious glaciers, snowclad mountains, colourful patches of tundra and stretches of endless pack and drift ice. We were very fortunate with the weather, enjoying very calm conditions and plenty of sunshine, but we were thwarted on a couple of days by dense fog. The eight landings and four zodiac cruises all went smoothly, and gave us plenty of time ashore to enjoy the wildlife and surprisingly rich flora. Our final tally of 31 species of birds and nine species of mammals reflects quality instead of quantity and we observed a superb variety of splendid creatures like Polar Bear, Ivory Gull, Walrus, Beluga, Northern Minke Whale, Humpback Whale, King Eider, a nice assortment of breeding waders, including Red Phalarope, and, of course, huge numbers of breeding seabirds, notably Brünnich s Guillemots and adorable Little Auks. Most of the large group of Birdquesters no fewer than 27 - gathered in Oslo, the capital of Norway, but the tour really started in earnest upon arrival at Longyearbyen, the main town of the arctic archipelago of Spitsbergen, although the spectacular scenery in northern Norway and the rather dramatic approach to the airfield in Tromsø were also much appreciated. Upon arrival at Longyearbyen we were welcomed by Rolf, one of the expedition crew from Oceanwide Expeditions, and within minutes we had piled into a bus and were driving away, first to drop off our baggage at the ship and then to visit downtown Longyearbyen, the much bigger than expected capital of Spitsbergen. We had some time to explore the town and its lovely museum and souvenir shops. We also visited the waterfront and the famous husky kennels, where Ivory Gulls were sadly absent, but we did enjoy the communal wolf-like howling of the huskies excellent value and admired the cart being drawn by a husky team. Close to the kennel we found quite a substantial Common Eider colony, which included a single female King Eider on her nest. Noisy Arctic Terns attacked us 1 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007

2 fearlessly when we got too close to their nests and pretty little Snow Buntings were singing from the rooftops. Purple Sandpipers and Dunlin foraged along the shoreline, where we also found several cute Long-tailed Duck and a few Glaucous Gulls. In mid afternoon we boarded the M/V Professor Multanovskiy, our floating base for the next week, settled into our cabins and assembled in the bar for our first of many briefings by the Oceanwide Expeditions staff (Rolf, Elke, Rico and Charlie). At about 6 p.m., we weighed anchor and were off, cruising west out of the Isfjord amongst really spectacular snow-covered mountain scenery. Another briefing (this time on safety matters), the mandatory lifeboat drill and the excellent dinner, prepared by our New Zealand and Malaysian chefs, took up much of the evening. With 24 hours of daylight, there was still plenty of time for sea-watching from the decks as we moved out of the fjord into the open sea. Here, we familiarized ourselves with the commoner seabirds of Spitsbergen: Northern Fulmars, almost entirely of the dark blue morph typical of high latitudes, dashing Arctic Skuas, dainty Black-legged Kittiwakes, and the four common auks, Brünnich s Guillemot, Black Guillemot, Little Auk and Atlantic Puffin. Next morning, we were anchored off the little island of Blomstrandhalvøya, and after an interesting briefing on how to avoid being eaten by a Polar Bear and how to get in and out of a zodiac, we landed at this rich coastal tundra environment. Here, as at many of our landing sites, we split into three groups: a group of amblers who could potter along slowly looking at the birds and plants, a group of hikers, who could head up the nearest mountain to enjoy the view and a group of very well equipped photographers, which we soon nicknamed, the paparazzi. The only restriction was that with each group there should be a guide armed with a rifle just in case we would encounter an unfriendly Polar Bear. We had a look at the remains of an ill-fated marble mine plant, but the main attraction here was the resident pair of extremely elegant Long-tailed Skuas, that posed so very well for us. Rather shy Red-throated Divers inhabited the pond and a Pink-footed Goose had built its nest on top of a crag. Several pairs of Barnacle Geese were breeding on an islet and a cracking male Rock Ptarmigan was overlooking his territory from the top of a boulder. An excellent selection of colourful and interesting flowers like Purple Saxifrage, Arctic Bell Heather, Hairy Louseworth, Mountain Avens and the tiny Polar Willow were also much appreciated. Several Reindeer of the small and short legged Svalbard race were grazing nearby. In the afternoon we visited the interesting scientific community of Ny Ålesund, the northernmost village in the world, containing the northernmost shop and post office on our planet. Here, we learned about the exploits of Amundsen, Nobile and Ellsworth in their attempts to reach the North Pole by airship, and checked out the ponds, creeks and shoreline for birds. One of the highlights was the friendly female Arctic Fox with her seven adorable pups, but the splendid adult Ivory Gull in its immaculate white finery really stole the show. A pair of Common Ringed Plovers tried to lure us away from their nest and hordes of Little Auks were circling high over the nearby mountain which holds the northernmost cable car in the world. The rarest bird was found by Alan as he showed us a vagrant male Common Blackbird at the dog kennels. Probably the northernmost Common Blackbird ever!! After another scrumptious dinner we cruised into the Kongsfjord and ended the day by admiring the amazing Kongsvegen glacier at close range. The high and imposing ice cliff showed patches of different magical hues of blue and hundreds of Black-legged Kittiwakes and Northern Fulmars were bathing in the meltwater. Three Bearded Seals were loafing on the ice shoals. In midmorning we arrived in the huge Liefdefjord on the northern coast of the archipelago. The mirror-like sea reflected the spectacular surrounding snow-covered mountains, but as soon as we 2 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007

3 boarded the zodiacs for a leisurely cruise amongst the Andøyane Islands (Duck Islands), mist started to form and spoiled it all a bit for us. We still saw three highly attractive drake King Eiders and then landed on a small island, where Rolf first checked the place out armed with his Remington rifle. Another male King Eider showed very well, but the main attraction were the seven dainty and colourful Red Phalaropes doing their thing at close range. Great fun. We also did our bit for conservation as we collected lots of plastic and disused fishing nets. Later we sailed further into the Liefdefjord, where we eventually ground to a halt in the ice about 3 km from the Monaco glacier, one of the largest in Spitsbergen, and here, in a truly magnificent setting we observed at least eight different, striking and much-prized Ivory Gulls. After dinner, we anchored in the nearby Bockfjord, where our only Pale-bellied Brent Geese of the trip were seen and where we walked to the tiny thermal pool, which is one of the few remains of volcanic activity on Spitsbergen. Here, we obtained perfect scope views of a male and an unobtrusive female Rock Ptarmigan. In the late evening we sailed out of the Woodfjord escorted by skeins of hundreds of Little Auks and Brünnich s Guillemots and close to midnight John found a rather distant pod of Belugas, that some of us still managed to see. The next day we arrived at the Alkefjellet (Auk cliffs) in the Hinlopen Strait and in mid morning we made a very much appreciated zodiac cruise below the up to 100m high cliffs which harbour about 50,000 pairs of Brünnich s Guillemots. The sea was full of these very arctic alcids and so were the cliffs, where we enjoyed intimate scenes amongst these feisty creatures. Most of the birds were brooding and several pairs of Glaucous Gulls kept an eye on things and obviously lived off the colony. There were also good numbers of Black Guillemots and Black-legged Kittiwakes about. Whilst returning to the ship our zodiac spotted a swimming Walrus. Most of the rest of the day we cruised amongst the drift ice of the central part of the Hinlopen Strait, where the mirror-like surface was partially covered with small icebergs in an immense variety of shapes. We had great looks at a docile Bearded Seal and spotted a couple of Northern Minke Whales. In the early evening we made a landing at the Sorgfjord where we found several Sanderling in breeding plumage and a few displaying Purple Sandpipers and heard fascinating bits of local history at the bleak cemetery. In the early morning the M/V Multanovskiy had reached its northernmost position at North at the edge of the pack ice to the west of the Sjuøyane Islands. After another excellent breakfast we were all on deck and started sailing slowly along the edge of the ice that stretched north to the pole. Within minutes our party had found the main target of the tour: a formidable Polar Bear and Captain Igor Stetsun then tried to follow this magnificent creature amongst the large ice floes of this incredibly hostile environment. He remained rather distant but we were immensely happy and felt privileged. Later in the day another Polar Bear was spotted at much closer range and this one stunned us all by coming towards the ship and allowing fantastic views while swimming and inspecting us. When it finally realized we were a bit out of his league, he walked away over the pack ice. The King of the High Arctic had obliged. While observing this glorious animal, another bear was found ambling in the distance. Our only Sabine s Gull of the trip showed just as we were concentrating on the bear and we also observed a splendid fully-spooned Pomarine Skua. In the afternoon we boarded the zodiacs and just floated amongst the many ice floes and admired their incredible shapes and colours. The day ended with a delicious BBQ dinner cum glühwein on the foredeck. We had been warned to dress warmly. This was followed by some Russian dancing and later several Birdquesters were invited to attend the birthday party of one of the crew members where they learned a few things about vodka Early next morning found us just off Moffen Island, but sadly the mist was so dense that we could not even see the place and because Moffen is a strict nature reserve, we had to keep our distance. We hung around a bit and were rewarded with sightings of two swimming Walruses with impressive 3 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007

4 tusks. We then sailed south to the northwest of the main island of Svalbard. The mist soon disappeared and dramatic scenery appeared all around us as we anchored just off the entrance of the Raudfjord. All five zodiacs were launched, and for the next couple of hours we explored the bay, admiring the huge colony of Black-legged Kittiwakes and Brünnich s Guillemots on the precipitous cliffs, and drifting about amongst the bright blue icebergs in front of the 3km wide Hamilton glacier. In the afternoon we sailed to the nearby little island of Fuglesangen, where we enjoyed a delightful afternoon just sitting at the edge of an enormous Little Auk colony. These delightful little creatures soon settled down within very close range and posed so incredibly well. We had a great time here just lying amongst the boulders and watching these cuties display and cackle and fight and snooze. Magical moments. Every now and then a Glaucous Gull flew over the colony and startled all the Little Auks in taking flight, whereby they showed off their amazing flight prowess in spectacular dense Starling-like formations. But soon they settled down again, often within a few meters from us. This was definitely one of the highlights of the trip! On our last full day in Spitsbergen, we landed on Prins Karls Forland at a sandspit called Poolepynten, a haul out spot for male Walruses. A strategic approach under the watchful eye of our German expedition leader Rolf resulted in being able to approach these gentle-looking giants within 50m. We spent a very enjoyable couple of hours watching and photographing the antics of these strange creatures that look like big fat slugs on land, but move so elegantly in the water. A spectacularly breaching Humpback Whale provided even more entertainment and so did another Beluga. Arctic Skuas were very much a feature of this area and once we saw no fewer than four birds chasing the same hapless Black-legged Kittiwake. Three Red-throated Divers were displaying, Red Phalaropes were spinning away and we also obtained our best views of several Great Skuas here. In the afternoon we explored a lovely tundra spot full of flowers called Eidembukta. The leisurely walk yielded a flock of c500 drake Common Eiders, about 15 King Eiders, a party of Long-tailed Duck including a male in winter plumage and several displaying Purple Sandpipers. We then sailed to Longyearbyen as several passengers had to catch a middle of the night flight out. After some final formalities on board, we said our farewells to our friendly crew and the Oceanwide Expeditions staff, and disembarked from the Professor Multanovskiy for the last time. A short bus ride brought us into town, and then those who did not want to spend the morning shopping ambled out to the husky kennels on the outskirts of town. Common Eiders, fierce Arctic Terns and Snow Buntings waved their goodbyes and we had lunch at the Café Busen. We then boarded our bus for the airport, and were on our way back to the hustle and bustle of the civilised world, filled with delightful memories and with full memory cards. 4 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007

5 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the letters (NL). GAVIIDAE Red-throated Diver Gavia stellata: A fairly common breeding bird in Spitsbergen, where there are thought to be 500-1,000 breeding pairs. We saw them well on a number of occasions, including pairs on ponds or lakes at Blomstrandhalvøya, Ny Ålesund, the Andøyane Islands and on Prins Karls Forland. PROCELLARIIDAE Northern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis: Common and ubiquitous at sea, often following the ship. There are thought to be between 500,000 and 1,000,000 pairs breeding in Spitsbergen. Most of the birds seen were of the dark morph, often known as Blue Fulmar and characteristic of these high latitudes. ANATIDAE Pink-footed Goose Anser brachyrhynchus: A widespread breeding bird in Spitsbergen; seen well on several occasions, and found nesting at Blomstrandhalvøya. This is the commonest of the three geese in Spitsbergen, with a breeding population of between 12,250 and 18,800 pairs. The Spitsbergen population (currently estimated at 42,000 individuals) spends the winter in Denmark, the Netherlands and Belgium. Barnacle Goose Branta leucopsis: Another widespread breeding bird in Spitsbergen, seen well on many occasions. Birds were found nesting on low-lying islands off Blomstrandhalvøya and Eidembukta. The entire Spitsbergen population of Barnacle Geese spends the winter in the Solway Firth in south-west Scotland (particularly at Caerlaverock Reserve), and stages on the archipelagos of the Helgeland District in West Norway in spring, and on Bear Island in autumn (although there is evidence that some birds make the journey from Spitsbergen to the Solway in a single hop!). This population has shown a dramatic increase from as few as 550 individuals in the 1950s to about 27,000 in recent years, thanks to increased habitat protection and greatly reduced hunting pressure throughout its range. Pale-bellied Brent Branta [bernicla] hrota: The least common of the geese in Spitsbergen, recorded at just one locality. Six were seen in flight upon arrival at the Bockfjorden. The Pale-bellied Brents breeding in Spitsbergen, along with those breeding in north-east Greenland and Franz Joseph Land, belong to a discrete population that spends the winter in northern Denmark and around Holy Island (Lindisfarne) in north-east England. This is one of the smallest goose populations in the world; numbers were reduced to as few as 2,000 individuals in the late 1960s, but under protection have since increased to about 7,000. Common Eider Somateria mollissima: Much the commonest duck in the islands, encountered almost everywhere. The concentration of nesting females around the husky kennels (a fox-free zone!) at Longyearbyen was interesting. The flock of about 500 drakes at Eidembukta was particularly impressive. The breeding population is estimated at 13,500-27,500 pairs. King Eider Somateria spectabilis: Not as common as we might have hoped, but we had good views of a nesting female at Longyearbyen, four drakes and a female around the Andøyane Islands in Liefdefjorden and 15 birds (mainly drakes) at Eidembukta. According to the latest estimates from BirdLife International, there are between 300 and 1,000 pairs of King Eiders breeding in Spitsbergen. Long-tailed Duck (Old Squaw) Clangula hyemalis: Good views of this very attractive little duck on several occasions. Most were single individuals or pairs at small ponds where they were presumably nesting. A male in winter plumage at Eidembukta was particularly interesting. The total breeding population in Spitsbergen is estimated at 500-1,000 pairs. 5 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007

6 TETRAONIDAE Rock Ptarmigan Lagopus mutus: Excellent scope views of two males on the rocky hillside above Blomstrandhalvøya and superb views of two males and a female on the boulder slopes at Bockfjorden. The males were still in their all-white winter dress and easy to spot, but the female was extremely cryptic. CHARADRIIDAE Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula: A pair at Ny Ålesund and a pair at the Sorgfjord remain our only observations. This is a rather scarce breeding bird in Spitsbergen, with a population of only pairs. SCOLOPACIDAE Sanderling Calidris alba: Great views of nine birds, mostly in full breeding plumage, on the beach at the Sorgfjord. This is another very scarce breeding wader in Spitsbergen, where the total population is estimated at only pairs. Purple Sandpiper Calidris maritima: Much the commonest breeding wader in Spitsbergen, present at most of our landing sites, but remarkably cryptic in its rather sombre breeding dress. Birds were observed in song flight and courtship display on several occasions. The one wing lifting display was well worth witnessing at close range. The Spitsbergen breeding population is estimated at 2,000-10,000 pairs. Dunlin Calidris alpina: Just two in the Longyearbyen area upon arrival in the archipelago. Only pairs of Dunlin breed in Spitsbergen, but the population appears to be increasing. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: Just a single bird in breeding plumage was noted in flight upon leaving the Isfjord. Yet another scarce breeding wader in Spitsbergen, where there are reckoned to be only pairs. PHALAROPODIDAE Red Phalarope (Grey Phalarope) Phalaropus fulicaria: Cracking views of eight in the Andøyane Islands were followed by observations of a pair at the Sorgfjord, one at Fuglesangen, two at Prins Karls Forland at a single at Eidembukta. Definitely one of the star attractions for the birders, and vastly more attractive as Red Phalaropes in their breeding plumage than as the Grey Phalaropes that we are more accustomed to seeing further south. Between 200 and 1,000 pairs breed in Spitsbergen. STERCORARIIDAE Pomarine Skua (Pomarine Jaeger) Stercorarius pomarinus: One was seen by Stewart in the Hinlopen Strait upon approaching the Alkefjellet and we all saw one at the edge of the pack ice on Polar Bear day. Both were light morph birds with full tail-streamers. These were presumably non-breeding birds, as the nearest known breeding grounds are in Novaya Zemlaya. The scientific epithet is derived from the Greek poma, a lid and rhinos, the nose, as this species develops a sheath or cover over the nostrils during the breeding season. Arctic Skua (Parasitic Jaeger) Stercorarius parasiticus: Much the commonest skua in Spitsbergen, present throughout the areas that we visited, and showing very well on many occasions. We witnessed some spectacular aerial chases, with up to four birds harassing a single Black-legged Kittiwake. The great majority were light morph birds, although there were one or two intermediate and dark morph individuals. (Dark morph birds are much commoner at lower latitudes, e.g. in Scotland). The Spitsbergen breeding population is estimated at 1,000-2,000 pairs. Long-tailed Skua (Long-tailed Jaeger) Stercorarius longicaudus: We had superb views of a breeding pair near the old marble mine at Blomstrandhalvøya. Only a few pairs of Long-tailed Skuas breed in Spitsbergen, presumably because of the complete absence of lemmings, their preferred prey during the breeding season. 6 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007

7 Great Skua (Bonxie) Catharacta skua: Singles and pairs were observed on a number of occasions throughout our cruise. This is a relatively recent arrival in Spitsbergen, first recorded breeding in 1976, but now obviously quite common. The latest estimate puts the breeding population at pairs. LARIDAE Sabine s Gull Larus sabini (NL): Alan saw a single bird at the edge of the pack ice, just as we were observing a Polar Bear. The only regular breeding site of this attractive species in Spitsbergen is Moffen island, but our visit there was thwarted by dense fog. (According to BirdLife International, there were only four pairs of Sabine s Gulls breeding in Spitsbergen in 1993). Glaucous Gull Larus hyperboreus: Common and widespread. A beautiful gull, but also the main avian predator in the islands, posing a constant threat to the auks, waders and terns. The Spitsbergen breeding population is estimated at 4,000-10,000 pairs. Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus: An adult showed in the distance at Blomstrandhalvøya and a first summer bird was identified amongst a flock of Glaucous Gulls at the Walrus haul out on Prins Karls Forland. This remains a scarce breeding bird in Spitsbergen ( pairs), although it first colonised the islands way back in Black-legged Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla: An abundant bird throughout the islands, breeding in large numbers on the auk cliffs in Hinlopen Strait, and commonly encountered far out at sea. The Spitsbergen breeding population is estimated at 265, ,000 pairs. Ivory Gull Pagophila eburnea: Surely the special bird of the ice and avian symbol of the High Arctic. We found at least nine individuals: one at the husky kennels at Ny Ålesund and eight over the drift ice and amongst the ice floes near the Monaco Glacier in the Liefdefjord. All were adults in their immaculate whiter-than-white plumage. The most recent estimate of the breeding population in Spitsbergen is only pairs. STERNIDAE Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea: A common bird throughout the islands, nesting at most of our landing sites and taking a very strong dislike to intruders. Always good fun being attacked by these dashing and fearless birds. The Spitsbergen breeding population is estimated at 5,000-10,000 pairs. ALCIDAE Brünnich s Guillemot (Thick-billed Murre) Uria lomvia: Abundant at sea, and observed at very close quarters from the zodiacs at the huge breeding colony at Alkefjellet in Hinlopen Strait. The total breeding population of this species in Spitsbergen has recently been estimated at 850,000 pairs! This is very much the High Arctic counterpart of the Common Guillemot, breeding no further south in Europe than northern Norway and Iceland. Black Guillemot (Tystie) Cepphus grylle: Common and widespread. Especially common in the Raudfjord, Liefdefjord and Hinlopen Strait, and often encountered on and around ice floes, but also found far out at sea. The Spitsbergen breeding population is estimated at 20,000-50,000 pairs. Little Auk (Dovekie) Alle alle: Definitely one of the special birds of Spitsbergen, and an obvious favourite with many of the group. We had dozens of close encounters with little flocks zipping by the ship or bobbing about on the water. One of the highlights of the tour was being able to just sit amongst dozens of these little birds full of character in the large colony on the island of Fuglesangen. These delightful creatures were totally unconcerned by our presence and just sat at close quarters on the boulders and rocks under which they breed and really showed off, offering stunning views. Their constant maniacal cackling was a real feature of our visit. The Little Auk is much the commonest seabird in the Spitsbergen archipelago, with a breeding population estimated at between one and three million pairs. 7 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007

8 Atlantic Puffin Fratercula arctica: This much-loved harlequin of a bird was seen well on a number of occasions at sea, both in flight and on the water. The total breeding population in Spitsbergen is thought to be in the range 10, ,000 pairs. TURDIDAE Common Blackbird Turdus merula: A male was found by Alan at the Husky kennels in Ny Ålesund and was later observed by many of us, while we were admiring our first Ivory Gull. The well-known Common Blackbird is a vagrant to Spitsbergen. There are only a few documented observations. EMBERIZIDAE Snow Bunting Plectrophenax nivalis: The only breeding passerine in the islands, but common, conspicuous and always a delight to behold. Its cheerful little song was to be heard at almost all of our landing sites, and even from the cliffs at Alkefjellet in Hinlopen Strait. MAMMALS Arctic Fox Alopex lagopus: Encountered on a couple of occasions, but usually rather wary. We saw one at Blomstrandhalvøya and enjoyed prolonged views of a female with seven pups in the middle of Ny Ålesund. This attractive little fox is still hunted in Spitsbergen. Polar Bear Thalarctos maritimus: The obvious highlight of the tour and probably the main reason for most of us to visit the spectacular Spitsbergen archipelago. We had three encounters with this most powerful arctic predator, all on the day when we were exploring the pack ice to the north of the islands. Our first was spotted while walking on the ice in the distance, and by careful manoeuvring of the ship we managed to keep it in sight for twenty minutes. The second animal was found at much closer range and stunned us all by coming towards the ship and allowing fantastic views while swimming and inspecting us. When it finally realized we were a bit out of its league it walked away slowly over the pack ice. Another animal was found in the distance at the same time. Good photos were obtained and everyone was in high spirits after this magical experience. Polar Bears used to be hunted in Spitsbergen. There is the amazing record of hunter Arthur Oxaas who shot 373 Polar Bears in 30 years in the middle of the 20 th century. Walrus Odobenus rosmarus: The first of the trip was a swimming individual at Alkefjellet. We then saw two at sea off Moffen Island, but our best encounter was at Poolepynten on Prins Karls Forland where we were able to admire, observe and photograph a group of about 30 impressive animals on the beach or in the water at fairly close range. All were males, as indeed are all the Walruses in Spitsbergen at this time of year, as the female go elsewhere to give birth to their calves. Ringed Seal Phoca hispida: We only saw a small number of these wary animals at the edge of the pack ice. Bearded Seal Erignathus barbatus: Thirteen encounters with this large sausage with whiskers. Northern Minke Whale Balaenoptera acutorostrata: Three observations of this small, but distinctive whale. This is the commonest baleen whale in the waters around Spitsbergen, but still rather uncommon. Humpback Whale Megaptera novaeangliae: Great views of a frequently breaching animal at the Walrus spot on Prins Karls Forland. The long flippers could easily be discerned. A great showing. Beluga (White Whale) Delphinapterus leucas: Late at night, John found a pod of ten or so as we were sailing out of the Hinlopen Strait and some of us still managed to get distant views of these attractive whales. We also saw one while observing the Walruses on Prins Karls Forland. Reindeer (Caribou) Delphinapterus leucas: Encountered wherever there were large areas of snow-free tundra, generally in ones and twos, but occasionally in scattered groups of ten or more. 8 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007

9 The endemic Spitsbergen race platyrhynchus is much smaller and noticeably shorter in the leg than Reindeer occurring further south. PLANTS RECORDED BY THE GROUP Polar Willow Salix polaris Mountain Sorrel Oxyria digyna Alpine Mouse-ear Cerasticum alpinum Moss Campion Silene acaulis Sea Sandwort Honkenya peploides Sulphur-coloured Buttercup Ranunuculus sulphureus Pygmy Buttercup Ranunculus pygmaeus Svalbard Poppy Papaver dahlianum Scurvy Grass Cochlearia groenlandica Golden Whitlow-grass Draba alpina Lapland Whitlow-grass Draba lactea Pale-yellow Whitlow-grass Draba oxycarpa Purple Saxifrage Saxifraga oppositifolia Alpine Saxifrage Saxifraga nivalis Drooping Saxifrage Saxifraga cernua Tufted Saxifrage Saxifraga cespitosa Yellow Marsh Saxifrage Saxifraga hirculus Dwarf Saxifrage Saxifraga tenuis Arctic Cinquefoil Potentilla hyparctica Mountain Avens Dryas octopetala White Arctic Bell-heather Cassiope tetragona Woolly Lousewort Pedicularis dasyantha Hairy Lousewort Pedicularis hirsuta Arctic Cottongrass Eriophorum scheuchzeri 9 Birdquest: Spitsbergen 2007